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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



LEAVES OF 
KNOWLEDGE 







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LEAVES 



OF 



KNOWLEDGE 



BY 



Elma MacGibbon 







LIBRARY 0* CONGRESS 
Two Conies Heceived ■ 

APR 16 1904 

Cooyrlght Entry 

CLASS CK. xXc. No. 

COPY B 



COPYRIGHT. 1904 

BY 

Elma MacGibbon 






SHAW & BORDEN CO. 

PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS 

SPOKANE 

57438 



ii 



CONTENTS 



Chapter Page 

I. Salem, the Capital of Oregon . . 15 

11. Astoria and the Columbia River . , 21 

III. Portland, the Western Hub ... 29 

IV. Eastern and Southern Montana . . 35 
V. The Willamette Valley ... 43 

VI. Great Falls, Montana — Boise, the Capital 

of Idaho 51 

VI I. Walla Walla and Southeastern Wash- 

ington ...... 59 

Vlll. Western Montana .... 67 

IX. Butte and Anaconda .... 75 

X. The Columbia River and Pullman . 81 

XI. The Palouse Country and Northern 

Montana 89 

XII. Helena and Eastern Montana . . 97 

XIII. Spokane and the Inland Empire . . 107 

XIV. Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. . . 115 
XV. Bellingham and Everett . . .125 

XVI. Seattle, the City of Destiny . . . 131 

XVII. Tacoma, and Olympia, the Capital of 

Washington . . . . . 137 

XVIII. Northern Oregon, Southern and Eastern 

Idaho 145 

XIX. Eastern Trip to St. Louis . . . 157 



CONTENTS- CONTINUED 



Chapter 




Page 


XX. 


Historic Scenes on the Potomac 


165 


XXI. 


Washington, D. C, the Nation's 






Capital ..... 


173 


XXII. 


Greater New York 


183 


XXIII. 


Boston, the Eastern Hub 


191 


XXIV. 


Fredericton and the Maritime Prov- 






inces ...... 


199 


XXV. 


Westward to Chicago 


207 


XXVI. 


St. Paul to Livingston 


215 


XXVII. 


The Yellowstone National Park 


223 


XXVIII. 


Montana's Capital .... 


231 



INTRODUCTION 



I HAVE had the opportunity, during the la^ 
few years, to travel very extensively through- 
out the West, and considerable in the East, 
with my husband, and finding people in gen- 
eral greatly interested in my oral description of 
the numerous places I have visited, I decided 
to give a history of the many cities and their 
surroundings as I saw them during my visits, at 
different seasons of the year. 

Realizing that it wall be of interest and infor- 
mation to the reading public, I now present to 
you my LEAVES OF KNOWLEDGE. 

Elma MacGibbon. 



CHAPTER I. 

Salem, the Capital of Oregon. 

On the 28th day of September, 1898, 
I arrived in the City of Portland, Ore- 
gon, after a journey of eight days from 
the Atlantic coast, this being my fifth 
trip across the American Continent. My 
husband, or Mac, as he is usually called, 
met me on the banks of the Columbia 
river, at the town of Kalama, State of 
Washington. As the entire train is 
placed on the ferryboat, I got out to 
view the beautiful river, remaining 
there until we reached Goble, on the 
Oregon shore, where the train pulled 
off the boat for my destination. Arriv- 
ing at the Union Depot, we took a coach 
and repaired to a suite of rooms, which 
Mac had secured for me on Seventh 
street. The rooms were splendidly fur- 

15 



Leaves of Knowledge 

nished, but in the back room, sitting on 
a table was a little machine with a long 
rubber tube running from it to the ceil- 
ing; this arrangement was called a gas 
stove. I looked at this so-called stove 
with disgust. Being the first one I had 
ever seen I felt sure I never could cook 
anything on it. I only stayed here one 
day, and moved to a private boarding- 
house. 

And, Oh! ye people of this conti- 
nent, what a boarding-house, for ele- 
gant rooms was all they had, and they 
all showed at this house that their main 
food was Oregon mist. However, as 
Portland is such a paradise to live in, I 
managed to exist one month. When, 
after being relieved of my purse and 
money, which has never yet been re- 
turned to me, I notified Mac that I 
would go with him up to Salem, or start 
back to that dear Montana home where 

16 



Salem, the Capital of Oregon 

I had lived for eight happy years, and 
as the courts of that state are known 
for their lenient divorce decisions, he 
at once complied with my request, came 
down for me and I moved next day to 
the Willamette Hotel, arriving there 
at 8 130 p. m. 

After unpacking my trunks we re- 
tired, but had scarcely got to sleep when 
I heard such cries and pleadings, which 
seemed to be out in the yard. I sprang 
from the bed and on going out into our 
front room, I knocked my foot against 
one of the trunks, cutting my toe open, 
but was so excited just then I did not 
think of it until later on. After looking 
out of the window and not seeing any- 
one, only to hear the pleading, "Oh ! do 
not murder me, boys, my poor wife 
and children, what will become of 
them? Please, boys, do not kill me." 
I then went back to bed. When, lo ! in 

17 



Leaves of Knowledge 

a few minutes, glass began to break; 
we both jumped then, and looking out 
could see a man in his shirt-sleeves 
standing on the roof of the conserva- 
tory, while men were standing below, 
coaxing him to come down, which he 
finally did, after they had promised not 
to murder him. They, of course, were 
employes of the hotel. He was taken 
from there to the waiting room, we still 
hearing the screams, and as soon as a 
coach arrived he went to the hospital. 
I heard later that he was a traveling 
man and the trouble was he had mixed 
a little too much Kentucky Rye with 
Oregon mist. Now, my friends, you 
can realize my feelings in the second 
city I had visited in Oregon. 

Salem is beautifully situated on the 
Willamette river, about fifty miles south 
of Portland, and is one of the state capi- 
tals that succeeded in getting all the 

18 



Salem, the Capital of Oregon 

principal state public buildings located 
there. I visited the insane asylum, 
where, at that time, eleven hundred and 
eighty-five persons were being cared 
for, with every possible comfort. They 
have beautiful grounds, magnificent 
buildings, with large bakery and butch- 
er shop combined. A little to the right 
is the orphans home. Here I found 
thirty-five children, their ages ranging 
from one to fourteen years, the older 
ones helping to care for the little ones. 
The matron seemed very kind and fond 
of them all, and each room was in per- 
fect order. A short distance to the left 
of the asylum is the penitentiary, where 
seven hundred and eighty Oregonians 
were enjoying themselves to the height 
of their ambition. The reform school 
and the Indian school are near here. A 
large woolen mill is also in active oper- 



19 



Leaves of Knowledge 

ation within the city Hmits. The Wil- 
lamette University is also in Salem. 

On the morning of December 31st, I 
took the train for Portland. 



20 



ASTORIA AND THE 
COLUMBIA RIVER 



CHAPTER II. 
Astoria and the Columbia River. 

On January 2nd, 1899, I left on the 
steamer Telephone, for Astoria. This 
was certainly a grand trip, though it 
was snowing at times and quite cold. 
After sailing down the Willamette riv- 
er, past the old City of St, John into 
the broader waters of the Columbia, a 
distance of one hundred miles ; stopping 
at St. Helen, Rainier and Mayger on 
the Oregon side of the river, as well as 
Kalama and Cathlamet on the Wash- 
ington side, I arrived at Astoria, the 
second city of Oregon in population, 
at 4 p. m., having enjoyed a delightful 
sail on this inland arm of the sea, which 
is navigable for the largest ocean ves- 
sels during all seasons of the year. 

I remained at Astoria during the en- 
23 



Leaves of Knowledge 

tire winter and summer. The main in- 
dustry of this seaport town is fishing. 
Here is the home of the royal chinook 
salmon and at no other place in the 
world is the salmon found of such su- 
perior quality as at the mouth of the 
Columbia river, and during the entire 
fishing season the canneries and cold 
storage plants are busy preparing sal- 
mon to ship to all parts of the globe. 

Every evening I could see about two 
thousand boats starting out with two 
men in each boat; some come back in 
the morning with their beauties and 
some perhaps stay a day or two, while 
at times some never return, as they be- 
come careless getting over the bar in 
the swift ocean waters, and before they 
realize their danger their boats would 
be upset and they would go to the bot- 
tom ; in spite of all the efforts made by 
the life-saving crews to save them. 

24 



Astoria and the Columbia River 

After weighing-, the fish are cut up 
and placed in cans to be boiled, having 
first removed the large bones. After 
being boiled, a hole is made in the top 
of the can allowing the steam to escape, 
and after cooling, the hole is again seal- 
ed up. The cans are then dipped into 
a preparation for coloring them, which 
shows that they are perfectly air-tight; 
they are then wrapped with paper which 
advertises the quality of fish and the es- 
tablishment where they were canned. 
The cans are then packed into cases, 
ready for the markets. 

I have pictures in my possession of 
salmon weighing seventy-four pounds 
each, this being the kind that are usu- 
ally canned, whereas the smaller vari- 
eties' are packed in the cold storage 
plants. 

I visited Warrington and Flavell, 
across Youngs Bay, and New Astoria 

25 



Leaves of Knowledge 

and Fort Stevens, at the mouth of the 
Columbia river, where is situated the 
fortifications of the United States Gov- 
ernment, which were greatly strength- 
ened during the Spanish- American war. 
Opposite here are Fort Canby and Fort 
Columbia. 

I used to enjoy the Sunday excur- 
sions to Seaside, where hundreds were 
bathing in the surf. This brings to my 
mind what happened to me one day, and 
I will give it to you. The tide was 
coming in, yet still seemed very quiet. 
As the waves would go out a little, I 
followed them to take a picture of Tilla- 
mook rock and lighthouse; had just 
got in a good position with my kodak 
when in came a large wave which nearly 
overpowered me. Seemingly I could 
not move I was so astonished. Mac 
came running after me, seeing my dan- 
ger from a distance. I then had to go 

26 



Astoria and the Columbia River 

to the hotel for repairs and to get the 
sand from my clothing. 

The Astorians pay very little atten- 
tion to the Fourth of July, Thanksgiv- 
ing, or other legal holidays, but com- 
memorate the close of the fishing sea- 
son by a three days' regatta, at which 
are gathered sportsmen from all over 
the Pacific coast. The young lady who 
receives the greatest number of votes 
cast for queen of the occasion is con- 
sidered highly honored. The three 
days' celebration which I witnessed 
were occupied in boat-racing by the 
fishermen's sail-boats, double sculled 
row-boats, large sailing yachts and a 
fine performance by the life-saving 
crews, swimming contests, high diving 
and the divers with their diving-suits, 
and finally the balloon ascension, which 
was a perfect success, the aeronaut go- 
ing up about two thousand feet and 

27 



Leaves of Knowledge 

coming down with the assistance of his 
parachute. There were also a number of 
land sports, besides the Grand Ball, 
presided over by the Queen of the Re- 
gatta. 

The City of Astoria is situated on 
the south bank of the Columbia, the 
river here being about five miles wide. 
It has an excellent harbor, with im- 
portant shipping interests, besides saw- 
mills and lumbering industries. Above 
the city is the government lighthouse 
at Tongue Point. Across the river are 
large saw-mills at Knappton, Washing- 
ton. 

On the 26th day of August, I re- 
turned by train to Portland, where I 
resided for the remainder of the year. 



28 



PORTLAND, THE 
WESTERN HUB 



CHAPTER III. 

Portland, the Western Hub. 

Portland is the great shipping center 
for the entire State of Oregon and 
eastern Washington, brought thither 
on boats from the Columbia and Wil- 
lamette rivers and by rail over the dif- 
ferent railroads having their terminals 
here. Nature has done much for this 
principal and largest city in Oregon, 
built on both sides and having a natural 
slope to the Willamette river, which is 
spanned by four bridges, in addition to 
the boat traffic. The most important 
business houses are situated on the 
West side, while across the river on the 
east are the large flour and saw-mills, 
besides the extensive warehouses and 
wharfs from which vessels are loaded 
for shipment to all parts of the globe. 

31 



Leaves of Knowledge 

On both sides are the fine residences, 
beautiful lawns and numerous parks, 
at only thirty feet above the sea level, 
while in plain view I can see Mount 
Hood with its snow-capped peak tower- 
ing 11,934 feet high, as well as Mount 
Rainier, 14,532 feet; also Mt. St. Hel- 
ens, with an elevation of 9,750 feet. 
Surely such grandeur cannot be found 
elsewhere, with every variety of climate 
and every industry at its very doors. It 
is a day well spent to visit the City Park 
and Portland Heights, beside a num- 
ber of street car rides ; one being to the 
Falls of the Willamette at Oregon City, 
where there is an extensive water pow- 
er, large saw-mills, and an immense 
paper mill. Another pleasant car ride 
was to Vancouver, Washington, the 
government trading and supply fort for 
the Northwest. The day I visited Van- 
couver how I displeased a photograph- 

32 



Portland, the Western Hub 

er. He had his studio in a rather di- 
lapidated looking old tent; he saw me 
stopping with my kodak and came to 
the door and looked in disgust at me, 
saying, "fire away." I smiled, thanked 
him, and fired, which I had certainly 
intended to do. I also made a pleasant 
trip to Aberdeen, Washington, on 
Grays Harbor. 

Portland is a prominent railway cen- 
ter and terminus of several steamer 
lines; steamships making regular trips 
to the Orient and San Francisco, Cali- 
fornia, the largest city on the Pacific 
coast. 

After spending an enjoyable time 
in Portland, I left for Butte, Mon- 
tana, over the Northern Pacific Rail- 
way, as the courtesies and attention of 
the employes on that road make travel- 
ling a pleasure. 



33 



EASTERN AND SOUTHERN 
MONTANA 



CHAPTER IV. 
Eastern and Southern Montana. 

After remaining in Butte a short 
time, I went on to Billings, Montana. 
Arriving there I found the thermom- 
eter 28 below zero, which seemed a lit- 
tle chilly to me, as I had been on the 
Pacific coast for the last two winters. 
Billings is the largest and most pros- 
perous city in Eastern Montana. The 
main industries are cattle and sheep 
raising. I will take this place up again. 

At Red Lodge are situated the great 
Rocky Fork coal mines, owned and 
operated by the Northern Pacific Rail- 
way Company. 

The town of Big Timber, which has 
not a tree within its limits (as one 
would imagine there would be by its 

37 



Leaves of Knowledge 

name) is the center and distributing 
point of an extensive stock country. 

Livingston, the division headquarters 
of the Northern Pacific Railway, is 
where the branch extends to the Yel- 
lowstone National Park, a distance by 
rail of fifty-four miles to Gardner, the 
entrance to the park. 

At Bozeman, my next stop, is located 
the State College of Agriculture and 
Mechanic Arts. Here are the rich 
farms of the Gallatin valley, which are 
noted for their production of barley, 
rye and wheat. The barley makes a 
superior quality of malt which is used 
in making beer. Here are also large 
flour mills, and at Belgrade and still 
further west are the mills of Manhat- 
tan where straw is manufactured into 
paper. At the head of the valley is 
Logan, the division of the roads going 
either to Butte or Helena. A few miles 

38 



Eastern and Southern Montana 

west, on the Helena line, is the junc- 
tion of the Gallatin, Madison and Jef- 
ferson rivers, commonly called the 
Three Forks of Lewis and Clark, the 
head of the Missouri river. At White- 
hall a branch line extends to Twin 
Bridges, where the State Home for Or- 
phans is located ; and the famous Alder 
Gulch and Virginia City, where in the 
early sixties there resided over thirty 
thousand persons and over ninety-five 
millions of dollars were taken from its 
placer mines. At the present time Vir- 
ginia City has numerous rich gold pro- 
ducing quartz mines, and the patriotic 
citizens are beginning to realize pros- 
perity as in the days of yore. Also on 
the same line is Sheridan, where there 
are a number of valuable gold mines; 
the town is advancing rapidly. 

At Whitehall I again take the train 
branching off at Sappington on the 

39 



Leaves of Knowledge 

Pony and Norris branches. Pony was 
formerly one of the early placer mining 
camps and is now a thriving town, hav- 
ing a number of producing gold quartz 
mines, with large concentrators and 
mills. At Norris, Red Bluff and Sterl- 
ing are mines and mills in active oper- 
ation. 

Going back to Butte, I take the Ore- 
gon Short Line to Dillon, where the 
State Normal School is located, and 
which is the largest and most prosper- 
ous city in southern Montana. Here 
is the center and distributing point for 
the Big Hole cattle country and the 
many surrounding mining camps. Red 
Rock is an important cattle shipping 
station and stage depot. From here 
the Concord stages daily arrive and de- 
part for Salmon City, Gibbonsville and 
other towns of Central Idaho. Lima is 
a division on the Oregon Short Line 

40 



Eastern and Southern Montana 

Railway. From Monida stages make 
regular trips to the Yellowstone Nation- 
al Park. 

As the summers are so pleasant on 
the Pacific coast, I then made a trip to 
that fashionable resort, Newport, Ore- 
gon. 



41 



THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY 



CHAPTER V. 

The Willamette Valley. 

At Yaquina Bay, where Newport is 
situated, the government has expended 
considerable money for the improve- 
ment of the harbor, and though the 
place is a fine summer resort, there is 
no extensive shipping done. It is a 
most beautiful place to while away the 
hot summer days, with fishing, boat- 
ing and bathing in the surf. Here is 
the terminus of the Corvallis & Eastern 
Railway, at the town of Yaquina, the 
principal offices being at Albany, where 
the road connects with and crosses the 
Southern Pacific Railway. It is pictur- 
esque to travel through the Willamette 
valley at this season of the year and to 
see the trees with their branches hang- 
ing to the ground, laden with delicious 

45 



Leaves of Knowledge 

fruit, and at the hotels to see them 
picking fresh fruit for the tables. We 
Butte smoke-eaters do not get our fruit 
that way. Albany is supplied with a 
woolen mill and flour mills, an iron 
foundry, and is an important railway 
center, besides considerable shipping be- 
ing done on the river. It is no dream 
that the citizens of Albany are the most 
sociable, happy, and contented people 
that I have had the pleasure of meeting 
on the continent, and the town is a 
paradise for any one wishing to make a 
life-long home. 

I found very much the same condi- 
tions at Corvallis, where the State Ag- 
ricultural College is located, and at 
Lebanon, with its large paper mills. 
Brownsville, near here, has woolen 
mills, the product from which is sold 
over the entire west. Harrisburg is at 
the head of river navigation. From 

46 



The Willamette Valley 

here I pass Junction City, going 
through continuous prune farms, ar- 
riving at the university city, Eugene, 
an important lumbering and mining 
center in addition to its fruit industry. 
South of here is Cottage Grove, the 
supply point and from where is extend- 
ed a branch line to the Bohemian gold 
mining district. 

The other towns of southern Oregon 
are Roseburg, justly named from its 
abundance of flowers, and Grants Pass, 
in the center of a rich mining section, 
Medford and Jacksonville, where are 
many very extensive and rich fruit 
farms ; and Ashland, the largest city in 
the southern part of the state, where 
the State Normal school is situated. 

Klamath Falls and Lakeview are the 
inland towns of Southern Oregon. 
Marshlield and Coquille are shipping 
towns on Coos Bay, as is also the town 

47 



Leaves of Knowledge 

of Tillamook on Tillamook Bay, which 
has large cheese factories. 

On the west side of the Willamette 
river are McMinnville, Dallas, Mon- 
mouth, Independence, Dayton and 
Newberg, while on the east side are 
Woodburn, Mt. Angel and Silverton, 
constituting the great hop growing lo- 
calities, with Salem, the center and dis- 
tributing point. Through this stretch 
of country are seen everywhere the 
buildings for the drying of hops, and 
during the autumn months there is a 
scene of continual activity for the grow- 
ers, pickers, pressers and buyers, get- 
ting the hops ready for shipment to 
eastern markets, principally to be used 
by the large breweries. The soil and 
climate are especially adapted to the 
production of hops, and from the pro- 
ceeds the owners receive an exceptional- 
ly good profit, about two million dol- 

48 



The Willamette Valley 

lars' worth being the annual production. 

Forest Grove, a college town, and 
Hillsboro are next visited, and then I 
am back to Portland, the hub of the 
State of Oregon. 

From here I again start over the 
Northern Pacific Railway, making a 
number of stops. Tacoma, Washing- 
ton, the Puget Sound terminal, I will 
fully describe later. At Ellensburg, 
one of the State Normal schools is lo- 
cated and this city is also a division 
point of the Northern Pacific Railway. 
From here I viewed Mt. Adams to the 
south, towering 12,250 feet above the 
sea level. 

North Yakima is located in a very 
rich section, which produces all kinds 
of fruit, as well as an abundance of 
hops. This land is made productive 
by irrigation. 



49 



Leaves of Knowledge 

All traveling people will recognize 
the expression, "Keep your eye on Pas- 
co," as I did. I then passed through the 
wheat country to Ritzville, Sprague and 
on to Cheney, where the other Normal 
school of the State is located. Then to 
Spokane, from where I go through the 
pan-handle of Idaho, on to Butte. 



50 



GREAT FALLS, MONTANA 
BOISE. THE CAPITAL OF IDAHO 



CHAPTER VI. 

Great Falls, Montana — Boise, the 
Capital of Idaho. 

After a brief stop at my home town, 
I went over the Great Northern to the 
second city of Montana, Great Falls. 
Here, on the banks of the Missouri 
river, is destined to be one of the larg- 
est manufacturing cities of the west, 
with its gigantic water-power, that can 
be so easily utilized through its numer- 
ous natural and continual chain of falls, 
the largest being Great Falls, from 
which the town takes its name. Rain- 
bow is where the silver-lead smelters 
are located. Crooked, and Black Eagle 
Falls, have the immense copper smelt- 
ers and refineries of the Boston and 
Montana Mining Company. Near here 
is the wonderful Giant Spring, and al- 
though it is unfathomable, I have stood 

53 



Leaves of Knowledge 

at its water's edge and gazed at the 
beautiful lilies growing beneath its sur- 
face. The city is in an agricultural sec- 
tion surrounded by coal and quartz 
mines. Here are the shops of the Great 
Northern Railway, and large elevators 
and flour mills. From here a branch line 
extends to Lethbridge, Alberta, North- 
west Territory, connecting with the 
Canadian Pacific, crossing the main line 
of the Great Northern at Shelby, as 
well as its connections at Havre. There 
is also a branch line running to Neihart 
and Barker. Neihart was once a very 
prosperous silver mining town, prior 
to the drop in silver in 1893. I made 
my first trip here in April, of 1890, be- 
fore the advent of the railroad. I find 
some of the same people with the same 
high expectations there now that I 
found on my first visit, and I verily be- 
lieve they will yet realize to the fullest 

54 



Great Falls, Montana, and Boise, Idaho 

extent their every desire. Over the 
range of the Little Beh mountains is 
the noted White Sulphur Springs. At 
Yogo are found the beautiful Montana 
sapphires. From Monarch the road 
branches to Barker, a lead producing 
town. On my return I stopped at Belt, 
a flourishing coal mining town, where 
the Anaconda Copper Company get 
their coal and coke for the Amalgamat- 
ed smelters. The Belt valley has ex- 
ceptionally good ranches with extensive 
stock ranges surrounding. 

Sand Coulee and Stocket are coal 
mining towns of the Great Northern 
Railway. 

I decided on my return to Great 
Falls, to make a trip to Boulder Hot 
Springs. At Boulder is the State Deaf 
and Dumb Institute, and is the center 
of a quartz mining section. A branch 
railroad extends to the Elkhorn mines. 

55 



Leaves of Knowledge 

A short distance from here is the min- 
ing and smelter town of Basin, having 
the works of the Montana Ore Purchas- 
ing Company. The Hot Springs are 
four miles from the Boulder depot. I 
found a comfortable conveyance and on 
arriving at the hotel I was made to 
feel at home. After thoroughly enjoy- 
ing my stop here, I made my first trip 
to the Gem of the Mountains, at its 
capital Boise, arriving on the 15th day 
of January, 1901. 

It will not be denied that the peo- 
ple are satisfied with their individual 
prospects and with the prospects of 
their country. The utterances of its 
statesmen, the voice of its legislature, 
the language of its press, all show how 
firmly, intelligently and successfully the 
people of Idaho are working unitedly 
together for the benefit of the entire 
state. 

56 



Great Falls, Montana, and Boise, Idaho 

Boise is surrounded by a number of 
rich gold and silver mines, and a great 
fruit country, made productive by irri- 
gation, with an agreeable, healthy and 
bracing climate. Here is located the 
United States government post, the 
State penitentiary, and the most mag- 
nificent Natatorium anywhere in the 
west. While I was here, the legisla- 
ture being in session, the representa- 
tives of Idaho extended an invitation to 
the law-makers of the State of Utah to 
visit them ; they accepted, and came up 
in a special car, remaining over one day. 
Among other amusements a grand re- 
ception was given at the Natatorium. 
The water having been drawn from 
the big plunge, a false floor, supported 
by studding was fitted in the plunge, 
bringing it to a level, and it was then 
used for a dancing pavilion. It was a 
beautiful sight to go through the re- 

57 



Leaves of Knowledge 

ception rooms, step out on the balcony 
above and look down on the hundreds 
of dancers ; it showed deep planning to 
construct a building, where thousands 
could gather for such an entertainment, 
as well as for bathing purposes. 

I now leave this happy people, and 
go to Walla Walla, Washington. 



58 



WALLA WALLA AND SOUTH- 
EASTERN WASHINGTON 



CHAPTER VII. 

Walla Walla and Southeastern 
Washington. 

The people of Walla Walla and sur- 
rounding country revere the name of 
that brave and fearless missionary, 
Whitman, who saved the whole coun- 
try, then known as Oregon, to the 
American government. Mr. Whitman 
crossed the Rocky Mountains and the 
then uninhabited western plains, on 
horseback, his sole companion being an 
Indian guide who could not stand the 
chilly blasts of winter, and with froz- 
en feet, had to be left behind on reach- 
ing the first settlement, while the hero 
pressed on with his tired horse alone 
during the entire winter, and eventual- 
ly reached the nation's capital at Wash- 
ington, D. C, and explained to the 

President and his cabinet, the extensive 

61 



Leaves of Knowledge 

resources of that vast western terri- 
tory. After accomplishing his mission, 
he returned, only to be massacred, he 
and his family, by the Indians. A 
large, high pillar marks the place of his 
sad ending. Within the city limits 
Whitman College stands to his ever- 
lasting memory. 

One of the oldest government forts 
in the west is still occupied here. Here 
is the state penitentiary, where the oc- 
cupants are kept busy making wheat 
sacks from hemp shipped from Manilla, 
Philippine Islands, 

I will say, it is no wonder this place 
was selected and trading posts establish- 
ed long before there was any establish- 
ed ownership to this part of the coun- 
try, as it is nature's paradise. I have 
visited this city at all seasons of the 
year and it always blends with the same 
beautiful splendor. Here it is that the 

62 



Walla Walla— Southeastern Washington 

champion soils of the world are to be 
found, while with a soil of such richness 
and fertility, and a climate so ideally 
adapted to the cultivation of grain and 
fruit, it is only natural that the har- 
vests should be excellent. 

College Place, two and a half miles 
distant, is such a pretty spot, and here 
is' found the course of instruction for 
the Advents. Milton, on the Oregon 
side, is also a wheat and fruit country. 
Waitsburg and Dayton, Washington, 
are two prosperous towns. In addition 
to their large wheat crops, abundance 
of barley and rye is grown, and no- 
where is the soil found so uniformly 
fertile as through this vast stretch of 
country; and nowhere on earth, it is 
certain, can wheat be raised more prof- 
itably. Nature has thus evidently mark- 
ed out the same conditions at the town 
of Pomeroy. At Starbuck, a division 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

point for the Oregon Railway & Navi- 
gation Company, I had dinner, and then 
moved on to Colfax, the capital of 
Whitman County, situated in the rich 
wheat section of the Palouse country. 
There are lumber industries carried on 
here, and extensive flour mills, and 
while the climate is in every respect all 
that could be desired for the growth of 
both winter and summer wheat, the fer- 
tility of the soil is such as to make it 
incomparable. The entire country and 
its citizens are continually busy sowing 
and harvesting their wheat, storing it 
in large warehouses, whence it is ship- 
ped to the Pacific Coast markets and 
from there to Asiatic and European 
countries. I leave Colfax for Spokane, 
and from there go over the Great Nor- 
thern to Kalispell, Montana, stopping 
on the way a few days at Troy, a di- 
vision point of the railroad. There are 

64 



Walla Walla— Southeastern Washington 

several quartz mines in this vicinity. 
A delightful vacation could be spent 
here hunting and fishing and visiting 
the beautiful Kootenai Falls. 



65 



WESTERN MONTANA 



CHAPTER VIII. 
Western Montana. 

Kalispell, the largest City in the Flat- 
head country, in the northwestern part 
of Montana, Hes west and is sheltered 
by the main range of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. This, as well as a portion of the 
state south of here, at one time com- 
prised the Oregon Possessions, whereas 
the rest of Montana was acquired by the 
Louisiana Purchase, which we will all 
celebrate during the St. Louis Exposi- 
tion. 

In the vicinity of Kalispell are num- 
erous sawmills, the largest being at 
Somers, at the head of Flathead Lake, 
also a very extensive pickling plant for 
the preservation of ties. I enjoyed 
many delightful drives through the im- 
mense wheat farms and inhaled the per- 

69 



Leaves of Knowledge 

fume from the many fruit trees then in 
bloom. I will always have a warm feel- 
ing and pleasant memories for the hap- 
py time and many friends I have made 
in Kalispell. Fifteen miles northeast 
is Columbia Falls, where is located the 
Soldiers' Home of the state, which 
cares for the infirm who once defended 
our country. 

One bright sunny morning in Aug- 
ust, 1 90 1, I drove three miles before 6 
A. M. to Demarsville, the head of navi- 
gation of the Flathead river, took the 
steamer Klondike and sailed down 
twenty-eight miles to the lake, passing 
Big Fork on the way, where a number 
of eastern excursionists left our boat to 
go camping. Then sailed thirty-five 
miles to the foot of the Lake. Arriv- 
ing there, we were met by a four-horse 
stage coach to drive thirty-five miles 
over the Flathead Reservation, so called 

70 



Western Montana 

on account of the tribe of Flathead In- 
dians that inhabit it. This was an in- 
teresting ride to me. I viewed the con- 
tinuous bands of horses and cattle, be- 
sides a large herd of buffalo, and In- 
dians on horse back, riding around us 
in all directions. At times we could 
not see any of them ; then in a few mo- 
ments they would come after us at a 
break-neck pace, their rifles hanging 
at their ponies' saddles, and with their 
war whoops encircling us, to their 
amusement, but it did not bother us old- 
timers. This was a jolly ride, though 
a hot and dusty one. There were 
eleven passengers and all hungry when 
we reached Selish. I never shall forget 
how good the dinner did taste as it had 
been only the fourth meal I had that 
day. Stopping over night, I took the 
train the next morning for The Garden 
City of the State, Missoula, 

71 



Leaves of Knowledge 

The city is beautifully situated on 
both sides of the Missoula river. Thi^ 
has been truly called the Garden of the 
State, with fruits and flowers, fish and 
fowls, streams and rivers, tracts of tim- 
ber and mountains. What more does a 
man want? And this section offers as 
fine opportunities, for mixed farming, 
as any place in my knowledge. 

The long sunny days, together with 
the rich soil, produce very fine wheat, 
oats and other cereal products. Here 
are large flour mills, and the most ex- 
tensive lumbering industries in the 
state. Also the best educational fa- 
cilities, having the Montana State Uni- 
versity, an up-to-date business college, 
and superior public schools. 

It is an important railroad division 
headquarters, and the Sanitarium of the 
Northern Pacific Railway Company is 
located here. It is the junction of the 

72 



Western Montana 

branch that extends up the rich Bitter 
Root Valley, passing Fort Missoula 
and continuing up the valley for a dis- 
tance of over fifty miles, passing the 
towns of Victor and Stevensville, 
through rich fruit and grain farms, 
reaching Hamilton, where also are large 
sawmills in operation. 

A short distance west, at DeSmet, a 
branch line extends to the Coeur 
d'Alene Mining District. The entire 
section is an agricultural and stock 
country, and at Plains, on the main line 
of the railway, are immense bands of 
thoroughbred cattle, horses and Angora 
goats. 

At Bonner, east of Missoula, are the 
large sawmills of the Blackfoot Milling 
Company. At Drummond a line ex- 
tends to Philipsburg and the celebrated 
Bi-Metalic and Granite Mountain 
Mines. 

73 



Leaves of Knowledge 

Deer Lodge has the State Peniten- 
tiary and the College of Montana, and 
at Warm Springs is the Asylum. 

I next reach the metropolis of Mon- 
tana, and my home, Butte. 



74 



BUTTE AND ANACONDA 



CHAPTER IX. 
Butte and Anaconda. 

Many people were first attracted to 
Butte in the sixties, on account of its 
placer mines; then in 1875 it became 
noted for its quartz mines of gold and 
silver, and with increasing depth the 
mines developed valuable copper depos- 
its. They are now producing 13,000 
tons per day, and furnish employment 
to about 15,000 men, with a payroll of 
over one million and a half dollars a 
month. 

People are surprised on visiting 

Butte, expecting to find a mining camp ; 

instead they find a metropolitan city, 

with well-paved streets and massive 

steel business structures. You will find 

as well equipped stores here as in New 

York City. I will not attempt to lead 

you through the beautiful fields of wav- 

77 



Leaves of Knowledge 

ing wheat, or let you moisten your lips 
with the delicious growing fruit, or 
view the shade trees. But take the elec- 
tric car and go four miles to Columbia 
Gardens, where the atmosphere is high- 
ly purified, joyous and clear. Surround- 
ed by this unseen influence the cares of 
life press less heavily upon the brain, 
and the severest toil or exposure finds 
increased capacity to bear it. This is 
not only a most delightful park, with a 
fine museum, but includes all kinds of 
sports, band concerts, baseball and num- 
erous other amusements. There is also 
a large dancing hall, with shade trees 
and flowers galore. Between here and 
the city are the horse racing and cours- 
ing tracks. 

The prosperity of Butte is under the 
city proper and its suburbs, Center- 
ville, Walkerville, Meaderville and 
South Butte. The greater quantites of 

78 



Butte and Anaconda 

ore are taken out below the level of a 
thousand feet, the supply seeming in- 
exhaustible. The production of the 
mines, with their smelters and reduc- 
tion works, support not only this vast 
city, but in shipping their ores for treat- 
ment to the extensive plants, send out 
prosperity to Great Falls, Basin and 
Anaconda. In addition to the amount 
of coal and wood used at the mines and 
smelters, an immense quantity of manu- 
factured lumber is used for timbering to 
support the works of the mines, extend- 
ing its prosperous influence through the 
whole state. 

The students of the State School of 
Mines here acquire a practical as well 
as a theoretical education. 

Anaconda, twenty-six miles from 
Butte, has the great Washoe Smelters, 
the largest copper smelting and refining 
works in the world, employing eighteen 

79 



Leaves of Knowledge 

hundred men and treating- five thousand 
tons of ore daily. The ore is sent to 
the concentrator, where it is reduced to 
concentrates, then separated from the 
waste. From there it is taken to the 
calcine plant, where the sulphur is re- 
moved. The mass is smelted in the 
reverberatory and the silica and iron 
are taken out as slag, the remaining 
matte is run through the concentrator 
and casting house, where it is cast into 
bullion bars of gold, silver and copper, 
then sent to the refinery. 

The people of the city of Anaconda 
have reason to be proud of its extensive 
library, fine opera house and its mag- 
nificent hotel, the "Montana." I again 
made a trip westward over the Oregon 
Short Line from Butte, changing cars 
at Pocatello. I remained over one day 
at Nampa, Idaho, and then went on to 
Portland and down the Columbia river 
to Astoria, Oregon. 

80 



THE COLUMBIA RIVER 
AND PULLMAN 



CHAPTER X. 

The Columbia River and Pullman. 

I spent three weeks, including a very 
pleasant Christmas, at Astoria, where 
the roses bloom out of doors the year 
around, a friend bringing me a beauti- 
ful bouquet she had picked in her yard 
the evening before I left. I spent my 
New Year festivities at Albany, and a 
new one on me was to see bands of 
sheep grazing in the large fields of win- 
ter wheat. I thought the good-natured 
farmers had forgotten to put up their 
fences, but was informed by a friend 
that this was customary, and if not 
done, the growth would be so great that 
there would be an abundance of straw, 
with less return of wheat. After a 
short sojourn here I went back to Port- 
land, starting east over the Oregon 

83 



Leaves of Knowledge 

Railway & Navigation to Hood river. 
Here one can agreeably stop for a few 
days, for there is a romanticism in its 
very air. Lifting my eyes aloft, I view- 
ed the encircling hills that nature has 
placed there to make this valley a para- 
dise. Fruit is grown here on an exten- 
sive scale. Strawberries, cherries, ap- 
ples and prunes are nature's favorites, 
and she bestows a lavish care on them. 
I had the pleasure of meeting a friend 
of my girlhood days, whose home is 
here, and he made it very pleasant for 
me, taking me for a drive around the 
block, a distance of eight miles, through 
the fruit section. The strawberries are 
renowned on account of their being so 
delicious and hardy. The same may be 
said of their other fruits, which con- 
sequently stand shipment to foreign 
ports, as well as all over the continent. 
This makes the town a busy market 

84 



The Columbia River and Pullman 

during the summer season, crowded 
with fruit buyers, owners and pickers. 

From here I pass on to The Dalles, 
where boats ply on the Columbia river 
to Portland and Astoria. This is an 
important shipping point for wool, 
sheep, horses and cattle from Central 
Oregon and Washington. 

I pass Celilo Falls to Biggs, which is 
the junction for the railroad that ex- 
tends to Central Oregon at Shaniko, 
with the Towns of Wasco and Moro on 
the line, and the town of Prineville 
further inland, in the stock country. 

North of the Columbia river, on the 
Washington side, is the town of Gold- 
endale, in the center of an agricultural 
and stock country. 

I made a short stop at Arlington. 
Near here is Heppner Junction, where 
a branch extends to lone and Heppner, 
and with Condon and Fossil have ex- 

85 



Leaves of Knowledge 

tensive stock ranges, making shipments 
at Arlington from both sides of the Co- 
lumbia river. I take the train, follow- 
ing the river, pass Umatilla to Wallula, 
where I change cars and go to Walla 
Walla, Washington. 

After a pleasant sojourn here, renew- 
ing old acquaintances, I go on to that 
stirring and enterprising town of Pull- 
man, where the State Agricultural Col- 
lege is located. I learned there were 
students in attendance, not only from 
their own state, but from other west- 
ern states. Pullman has the advantage 
of not only the Oregon Railway & Nav- 
igation Company, but the Northern Pa- 
cific Railroad as well, which makes it 
a leading commercial wheat shipping 
section for the Palouse country. The 
atmosphere is healthful, bright and 
clear, and the soil is of the richest black 
loam. 

86 



The Columbia River and Pullman 

Writing of Pullman brings to my 
mind the drive I had from the hotel 
to the depot, on my first trip here. Mac 
came in my room and told me he had 
decided to take the morning train, due 
in ten minutes, for Spokane, and pity 
me ; I had two trunks, besides two grips 
to pack. I will say right here, our 
clothes did not get folded between tis- 
sue paper that time. The help came 
right up to my room, and while they 
were taking down the first trunk we 
packed the second. I being the only 
lady, with a dozen traveling men, we 
started for the depot. Nearing there a 
freight train came on the track and for 
a moment it looked as if we would be 
delayed, and when it had passed on, the 
buses from the two hotels began to race 
their horses, running at full speed, with 
wheels almost locked, to see who would 
get in place first. Mac had rushed on 

87 



Leaves of Knowledge 

ahead to check trunks, and, seeing the 
race was standing with open arms to 
pick me up out of the wreck, but we did 
not have any, and made our train in 
time. 



88 



THE PALOUSE COUNTRY AND 
NORTHERN MONTANA 



CHAPTER XI. 

The Palouse Country and Northern 
Montana. 

From Pullman I made a pleasant trip 
to Uniontown, and drove, one fine May 
day, to Genesee, Idaho. It was a charm- 
ing sight to pass through the immense 
wheat fields; the grain yields of this 
country are marvelous. 

After I had made some pleasant ac- 
quaintances, I returned to Uniontown, 
Washington. From there I was driven 
to Lewiston, Idaho, a distance of nine 
miles. The last four miles of the way 
has a drop of over two thousand feet, 
and during the four miles Lewiston 
seemed right at our feet, on ac- 
count of the road winding down the 
hill, snake fashion. At times the out- 
look seemed so dangerous that it caused 

91 



Leaves of Knowledge 

one to hold one's breath, but I held on 
to the carriage seat instead. When I 
left Uniontown I had on quite a heavy 
wrap, but before reaching Lewiston the 
heat seemed almost unbearable. 

This town is where the Clearwater 
empties into Snake river. Boats run 
on the Snake river to Riparia, connect- 
ing with the Oregon Railway & Navi- 
gation line, and a branch of the North- 
ern Pacific connects with the main line 
to Spokane. Winter here is a most 
charming season, and the long sunny 
days of summer are succeeded by cool 
nights. Aided by irrigation, immense 
quantities of fruit are raised yearly. 
Across the Snake river, which is 
spanned by a long steel bridge, is the 
town of Clarkston, Washington, with 
Asotin a short distance up the river. 
These are fruit sections. Southeast on 



92 



Palouse Country and Northern Montana 

the elevated bench lands, is the town 
of Grangeville, in the wheat section. 

Lewiston is the out-fitting and busi- 
ness city for the mines of Central Idaho, 
and the location of the State Normal 
School. 

I passed up the valley through Ken- 
drick and Troy, ascending again to the 
wheat country at Moscow, where the 
State University of Idaho is located. 
Here crops are grown without the aid 
of irrigation or artificial fertilizers. I 
take lunch at Pullman, and go on to the 
town of Palouse, Washington, which, 
in addition to its farming interests, has 
important lumbering industries, mills 
being here that manufacture the lumber 
brought down the river from the sur- 
rounding country and Central Idaho. 
I stopped at Garfield, and thence on to 
Oakesdale, Rosalia and Spangle, pass- 
ing through the immense fields of 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

waving wheat. Reaching Spokane, I 
take a trip on the Great Northern across 
the State of Idaho, with a stop at Bon- 
ner's Ferry, made important on account 
of railroad connections with the Crow's 
Nest Pass Railroad and Kuskonook, 
British Columbia. 

I made a few days' stop at Libby, 
Montana, a stirring little town, with 
rich mines surrounding. From Jen- 
nings another branch line of the Great 
Northern will run to Fernie, B. C, also 
connecting with the Crow's Nest Pass. 

During my stay in Kalispell I noticed 
great improvements since my last visit. 
Surveys were being made to the new 
town of Whitefish by the Great North- 
ern Railroad. 

After a run of two hundred and 
sixty-five miles east of Kalispell, I ar- 
rived at Havre, where are the shops of 
the Great Northern on its main line. 

94 



Palouse Country and Northern Montana 

From here the road branches off to 
Great Falls, Helena and Butte. This 
branch is commonly spoken of as the 
Montana Central Railway. Havre is 
also division headquarters. This city 
and Chinook are important cattle ship- 
ping points, and the country east to 
Glasgow, the next railroad division, 
has very important cattle industries. 

An interesting incident to me oc- 
cured while at Havre. The Indians 
were coming together from the different 
reservations to celebrate and have their 
war dance. It was amusing to see their 
costumes and the mode of travelling of 
the hundreds that gathered for this 
occasion. Fort Assiniboine, a United 
States Government Post, is near here. 

Fort Benton is surrounded by an ex- 
tensive stock country, and is the head 
of navigation of the Missouri river, be- 
ing the oldest town in the state. 

95 



Leaves of Knowledge 

After a short stop at the City of Great 
Falls, I wend my way to the capital of 
the state, Helena. 



96 



HELENA AND EASTERN 
MONTANA 



CHAPTER XII. 
Helena and Eastern Montana. 

The motive of my coming to Helena, 
with the rest of the patriotic citizens of 
the State, was to dedicate our magnifi- 
cent capitol buildings, which had just 
been completed, and to commemorate 
the one hundred and twenty-sixth anni- 
versary of our independence. 

Helena is well located for the capital 
and is the center of population in the 
state; has substantial business blocks 
and beautiful residences, with every ap- 
pearance of a permanent city. 

The Broadwater Natatorium, with its 
immense plunge, is a great source of at- 
traction, and close by is Fort Harrison. 
Within the city is the United States 
Assay Office, and also a large cracker 
factory. 

99 



eaves of Knowled 



ge 



Helena stands today in what used to 
be known as Last Chance Gulch, where 
originally were rich placer mines, the 
producers of forty million dollars in 
gold, and at the present time a number 
of quartz mines are in operation. Sur- 
rounding the city and adjoining are 
Marysville, Remini, Clancy, Corbin and 
Wickes, with branch railway lines con- 
necting with Helena. A large smelter 
is in constant operation at East Helena, 
the power being furnished by the elec- 
tric plant on the Missouri river at Can- 
yon Ferry. 

After my above mentioned celebra- 
tion, I went to Hunter's Hot Springs, 
the health resort of the Northern Pa- 
cific Railway Company, two miles from 
its main line at Springdale, where 
coaches meet all persons desiring to go 
to the Hot Springs. I had an enjoyable 
sojourn here and moved on to that far 

100 



Helena and Eastern Montana 

eastern Montana town, Glendive, a dis- 
tance of three hundred and twenty-two 
miles. This town is a division point, on 
the main line of the Northern Pacific 
Railroad, and has more stir and life than 
the majority of towns. The opera was 
running in full blast, the Jesse James 
tent shows and the Wild West Circus. 
It was amusing, as I sat on the balcony 
of the hotel, to see the circus people 
forming on horseback in their different 
costumes and trying to appear very wild 
for the parade. They were followed by 
a four-horse team attached to an 
enormous enclosed wagon, supposed to 
be holding the wild animals. The laugh- 
able part came in as they were turn- 
ing in front of the hotel, their horses 
were unable to pull the wagon, and the 
Glendive citizens had to lend a helping 
hand, for we wanted them to move on, 
fearing the animals might get out, but 

101 



Leaves of Knowledge 

on the circus grounds they only had a 
few buffaloes. 

The town presented a very busy ap- 
pearance, this being the wool season. 
Herders were bringing in bands of 
sheep, with thousands to a band, for the 
shearing. I was invited for a drive to 
see the shearing, which was all being 
done by machinery. This was a pitiful 
sight to me — to see the way the clipping 
machines cut up the sheep, and to hear 
thousands of little lambs crying on ac- 
count of the separation from their 
mothers. This was one trip I did not 
enjoy. 

It was a perfect sight to see the im- 
mense quantity of wool in sacks ready 
for shipment. The wool buyers were 
here from as far east as Boston, and all 
the sheep owners in the country, and it 
certainly did make things lively. 

I finally bade adieu to this stirring 
102 



Helena and Eastern Montana 

community and turned my face west- 
ward to Miles City, the oldest town in 
eastern Montana, where General Miles 
was at one time stationed, and from 
whom the town received its name. It 
has been for years the greatest cattle 
shipping town in the state, and also an 
important depot for the shipment of 
sheep and wool. Here is located the 
State Reform School, and two miles 
west is the Government Post;, Fort 
Keogh. 

I never shall forget Forsyth, on ac- 
count of the intense heat while there. 
I just fanned myself all the time and 
while traveling through this stretch of 
country I took night trains, it being 
cooler. Forsyth is a railroad division 
point and a thriving town, having ex- 
tensive stock interests, 

Billings is the western terminus of 
the Burlington Railway system, and is 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

the greatest wool shipping depot in the 
country. The city has reason to be 
proud of its fine Hbrary, a magnificent 
stone building, well supplied with many 
volumes. 

Here is located division headquarters 
of the Northern Pacific and Burlington, 
the latter running its trains over the 
track of the Northern Pacific west to 
Seattle, Washington. 

I again find here a country made pro- 
ductive by irrigation, and crops are 
now grown successfully where a few 
years ago was a continuous stock range. 

Laurel is the junction of the Rocky 
Fork branch to Red Lodge, Gebo and 
Bridger, important coal mining towns, 
with farming and fruit raising country 
surrounding them. 

Columbus has excellent stone for 
building purposes, which was used in 
the erection of the state capitol. 

104 



Helena and Eastern Montana 

At Big Timber has been erected the 
first woolen mill in the state. 

Bozeman seemed such a pretty home 
town, during my summer stop, with the 
beautiful lawns and abundance of flow- 
ers, the vines twining around the 
houses. 

The morning I left Bozeman, Mac, 
as usual, gave me a few minutes to get 
ready. I was quietly reading the morn- 
ing paper, when he came in and said 
that we would take the Burlington for 
Butte. I soon got ready, however, as 
I am accustomed to short notices. The 
buses and street car had all gone to 
the train, so he telephoned for a coach. 
This, of course, all took time, which 
made us a little late; nevertheless, we 
started out at a fast pace. On getting 
in sight of the depot the train seemed 
ready to leave, but the driver said : "I 
will make it, if you want me to." Mac 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

told him that was what he wanted. 
Then he put the horses on a run, whip- 
ping them all the time, and turning cor- 
ners our carriage would run on two 
wheels. The conductor seeing us com- 
ing at such a pace held the train a mo- 
ment, no doubt thinking this was an 
elopement case, and, thanks to his kind- 
ness, and the driver's whip, we reached 
the train in safety, and made Butte that 
evening, just the same. 



106 



SPOKANE AND THE INLAND 
EMPIRE 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Spokane and the Inland Empire. 

After a pleasant stay of six weeks in 
Butte, I went over the Great Northern 
Railroad to Spokane, making short 
stops at Great Falls, Havre and Kalis- 
pell. Arriving at Spokane I took a 
coach and drove across the river to 
the Oregon Railroad and Navigation 
depot and took the train for 
Tekoa, Washington, a distance of fifty 
miles, passing Rockford, Fairfield and 
Latah, extensive wheat sections. Tekoa 
is the town where the trains branch off 
to go to the famous Coeur d'Alene 
mines, consequently this is an important 
division point. Millions of bushels of 
wheat are shipped from here yearly. 
This was a picturesque looking little 
town to me, with the hills dotted by lit- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

tie white buildings, trees and flowers. 
On account of the hotel just burning' 
down, accommodations were limited, 
but I got a room with a very pleasant 
family, taking my meals at a restaur- 
ant. 

My next stop was at Wallace, Idaho, 
where I spent a very entertaining week. 
This is the principal city of the Coeur 
d'Alenes, surrounded by mining towns. 
The ones of most note are Wardner, 
Mullan, Burke and Gem, all large pro- 
ducers of lead and silver ore, and Kel- 
logg, an important milling town. On 
my way back from Wallace I stopped at 
Harrison, on Coeur d'Alene Lake, 
where are large sawmills. To change 
my route, I took a sail on the Steamer 
Spokane over the lake to Coeur d'Alene 
City, which I found extensively en- 
gaged in lumbering enterprises. 



110 



Spokane and the Inland Empire 

I made my way back to Spokane in 
time to attend their annual fall fair, 
which showed patronage from the four 
northwestern states. The fruit exhibit 
from the irrigated fruit farms, sur- 
rounding Wenatchee, carried off the 
first prize, closely followed by Water- 
ville and Douglas County and the Pa- 
louse country. There were also wheat 
and cereals from these, Harrington and 
the Big Bend country, the exhibits com- 
ing on the Washington Central Railway 
from Davenport, Coulee City and Wil- 
bur. On the Spokane Falls & Northern 
they came from Colville, Marcus, 
Northport and Nelson, British Colum- 
bia. Also from Rathdrum and the lum- 
bering town of Sandpoint, on Pend 
d'Oreille Lake. There were mineral 
exhibits from the Coeur d'Alene mines 
of Idaho, from Republic, and other sec- 
tions of Washington, and from Ross- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

land, Sandon, Kalso, Trail and Slocan, 
British Columbia; Baker City and 
Sumpter, Oregon; cattle from Le 
Grande and Portland, and as far south 
as the State of Nevada; horses, sheep 
and hogs from the entire section, in- 
cluding trotting and racing horses from 
Butte. And even the Northern Pacific 
Railway Company had their exhibit, 
consisting of a miniature railroad, and 
I had the pleasure of taking a trip to 
St. Paul and return in ten minutes. 

The horse racing and other sports 
were unexcelled, and the balloon ascen- 
sion was perfectly grand, the finest I 
ever witnessed; to see coming down, 
seemingly as far as the eye could reach, 
two little parachutes, one basket having 
a dog in it, the other a cat, followed by 
the balloonist and his parachute, all 
coming safely back to earth. 

I met interesting people from every- 

112 



Spokane and the Inland Empire 

where in the west, and remarked to my 
friends that nature had destined a city 
here, the center of the richest section 
found anywhere on the American con- 
tinent, with its mines, lumber, farms 
and natural available water power ; with 
its two transcontinental railroads and 
branches, with division headquarters 
for all lines passing through the city, 
of all the western railway systems, 
bringing business from the Dominion 
of Canada, as well as the United States, 
an Inland Empire within itself. All 
these, combined with the energy and 
enterprise of its citizens, will make 
Spokane the largest inland city on the 
western hemisphere. 

Probably what made me so interested 
during the fair was that the final games 
of the Pacific Northwest National Base- 
ball League were being played here at 
this time, and I was delighted, of 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

course, to see Butte, my home town 
team, win the pennant. 

The fair being over, I wended my 
way to Seattle, Washington, over the 
Great Northern Railroad, which served 
me with every comfort on the way. 



114 



VICTORIA AND VANCOUVER. 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 



CHAPTER XIV. 
Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. 

After remaining in Seattle a few 
days, I decided to view the country 
across the Hne, in British Columbia. 
One bright, sunny morning I took the 
steamer Majestic for Victoria, the cap- 
ital, situated on Vancouver Island. 

There was an almost endless varia- 
tion in this sail on the inland waters of 
Puget Sound, in sight of the mainland 
and the many islands, with the Olym- 
pic and Cascade mountains in the dis- 
tance. 

I made a short stop at Port Town- 
send, the port of entry. Nearer the 
Pacific ocean is Port Angeles, on the 
strait of Juan de Fuca. 

An amusing incident to me was the 
porpoises continually following the 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

steamer while crossing the strait. On 
landing at Victoria, first being detain- 
ed to have my grips examined, then 
stepping out on the wharf, the first evi- 
dence of life I met was "Mary's little 
lamb." I exclaimed, "All the same 
Can-a-da!" as we do not have sheep 
meeting strangers coming into our 
town. Then, after my cordial greeting 
with the lamb, I looked around for a 
coach, but there was not one in sight. 
In a moment, however, I heard musical 
voices calling out: "Want a coach, 
lady? Want a coach, lady?" I looked 
up and standing on a high hill above 
me, were a number of coachmen. I 
answered, "Yes, I certainly do. Get a 
move on you and come down here," but 
they said they could not come down. 
Then the only thing left for me to do 
was to pay the porter of the boat two 
bits to pack my grips, which they call- 

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Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. 

ed bags, more than a block up hill to 
reach these lordly coachmen. This 
was the first city where I did not find 
coachmen ready to help a lady travel- 
ing, and gives a poor impression of the 
city to strangers. 

Overlooking Victoria harbor are the 
magnificent capitol buildings, erected 
on a beautiful ten acre lot, at a cost of 
$900,000. These form a g'roup of 
three buildings, the center one, which 
is surmounted by a dome 150 feet high, 
contains the ofiices of the several de- 
partments, and the legislative hall, with 
committee rooms and library. The side 
buildings, which are connected with 
the central one bv covered colonnades, 
are devoted to the printing department 
and the Provincial museum. The foun- 
dation is of local granite, and the su- 
perstructure is built of a beautiful light 
colored, close grained sandstone, from 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

the Haddington Island quarries, near 
the north end of Vancouver Island. 
The columns supporting the interior 
ceiling are of Italian marble, while the 
walls of the treasury and rotunda 
are finished in Tennessee marble, and 
native woods are used for the interior 
finish. Beautiful lawns, walks and 
shade trees, surround the structure. 

A strange occurrence happened as I 
stepped in the main building. A gen- 
tleman stepped up, seeing I was a stran- 
ger, and kindly offered to show me 
through the buildings. I presented him 
my card, and as we were climbing the 
long marble stairs, I somehow in the 
conversation mentioned Oregon. He 
turned and looked at me with surprise, 
wanting to know if that was my home. 
"Oh ! no," I answered, "my home is in 
Butte, Montana." He then told me that 
his former home had been in Albany, 

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Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. 

Oregon, and, I being- acquainted with 
so many at that city, our trip through 
the buildings was very pleasant. I will 
say right here, of all the grand build- 
ings I have gone through in my trav- 
els, that Victoria's parliament buildings 
excel them all. To stand under the 
dome and gaze into the assembly hall 
beneath, was a sight of such magnifi- 
cence, I would not attempt to describe 
it. 

Victoria is a model residence city, 
with its broad streets, beautiful lawns 
and parks. Near here are the govern- 
ment fortifications of Esquimault. A 
railroad extends north on Vancouver 
Island, to Nanaimo, Alberni and Sid- 
ney. 

My visit coming to an end on the 
island, I took the steamer Charmer and 
crossed the straits of Georgia, a dis- 
tance of eighty-four miles to the city 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

of Vancouver, the western terminus 
of the great transcontinental line 
stretching from the Atlantic to the Pa- 
cific, the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
with one continuous line from Halifax, 
Nova Scotia, a distance of 3,762 miles, 
besides its' numerous branches to every 
city and section, in that vast Dominion 
of Canada. The same company has its 
own line of steamships and connections 
to every important harbor on the globe. 

Their harbor is one of the finest in 
the world, it being possible for the 
Briton's entire navy to ride at anchor 
within her land-locked waters. 

The great salmon fishing industry of 
the Fraser river, is at its very doors. 

I enjoyed my street car ride and an 
afternoon well spent going through 
Stanley Park. The perfume was so 
fragrant and pure as I wandered 
among the immense trees, occasionally 

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Victoria and Vancouver, B. C. 

stopping to have a swing, viewing all 
the different animals that I could not 
begin to mention. Here is also an im- 
mense wire netting, with every species 
of bird imaginable confined therein. 
Then I wandered down to the placid 
lake to view the stately swan and oth- 
ers of the web-foot tribe, as they glided 
along in peaceful simplicity. From 
there through a continuous stretch of 
nature's own product of flowers. As I 
was leaving the park, I looked back 
with a sigh for having to leave this 
bright spot of nature. 

While in the city I stopped at Hotel 
Vancouver, owned by the Canadian Pa- 
cific Railway Companv, and for atten- 
tion and grandeur around the entire ho- 
tel, with its spacious dining room, noth- 
ing better can be found. 

A pleasant feature to me was that I 
was in Canada to celebrate with them 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

their Thanksgiving on October i6th, 
which meant two Thanksgiving din- 
ners for me, and I thoroughly enjoyed 
my second one a month later in Butte. 

A short distance south of the city, on 
the Fraser river, is New Westminster, 
an old established town, with valuable 
trade in lumber and salmon, and im- 
portant manufactures. 

My festivities ending here, I crossed 
the Canadian line back to my stars and 
stripes, making a short stop at the en- 
terprising town of Blaine, Washing- 
ton; then on to New Whatcom and 
Fairhaven. 



124 



BELLINGHAM AND EVERETT 



CHAPTER XV. 
Bellingham and Everett. 

New Whatcom, on Bellingham Bay, 
with Fairhaven, make practically one 
city, with their immense shingle and 
saw-mills in continuous operation. 
They have since been combined and 
incorporated as the City of Bellingham. 

There are large salmon canneries 
here, as the fisheries of Puget Sound is 
an extensive and important industry. 

The scenery is gorgeous on Puget 
Sound, with its many islands and Mt. 
Baker, having an elevation of 10,827 
feet for a background. 

Anacortes has important fishing in- 
dustries. Sedro Woolley has large saw 
and shingle mills, and as I walked up 
and down the streets, the town pre- 
sented to me every evidence of industry. 
Near here are the coal mines of Coke- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

dale. Hamilton is a lumbering town. 
Mt. Vernon, La Conner and Stanwood 
are lumbering towns, and the great oat 
producing section. At Arlington, Dar- 
rington and Marysville, I still found 
lumbering industries. 

I found a great improvement at Ev- 
erett, a few years ago it was a small 
town; now it is a metropolitan city, 
with its numerous thriving enterprises. 
As I stood on the balcony of Hotel 
Monte Cristo, and gazed over Gardner 
Bay on Whidby Island, I exclaimed, 
"Nature cannot show me more gran- 
deur than this," and combined with the 
hand of man the vessels busily ply 
back and forth upon its broad expans- 
ive waters, over the bay and sound to 
the Pacific Ocean. 

The bay front presents a busy ap- 
pearance from the saw and shingle 
mills, where vessels are constantly load- 
ing for foreign ports. 

128 



Bellingham and Everett 

There is a large smelter at the point 
of land between Gardner Bay and the 
mouth of the Snohomish river, which 
treats the ores of the Monte Cristo and 
Silverton mines, and large quantities 
of custom ores are shipped here for 
treatment. I made a visit to the smel- 
ter and saw the red liquid ore, as it 
flowed in the large boiling pots, and 
was then hauled away to cool; and the 
bright silvery ore, as it flowed into the 
bullion molds and was conveyed away 
to the refinery. After the thorough 
treatment there it is shipped to the 
mint. 

Everett has the western terminal 
shops of the Great Northern Railroad 
Company. At Lowell, a suburb of the 
city, is' a large paper mill, producing 
the finest bond paper from wood pulp. 
The Cottonwood growing in the sur- 
rounding country is brought here in 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

cord-wood lengths; then is taken, a 
stick at a time, and chopped into small 
chips, being then carried to large vats 
and soaked in chemicals until it forms 
a pulp that runs over hot rollers, and 
running over continuous rollers is com- 
pressed and dried, bringing it down to 
fine paper. All this process is accom- 
plished by the finest and most expensive 
machinery. The paper is then wrap- 
ped and baled ready for shipment. 

In front of the city, across Gardner 
Bay, on Whidby Island, is the town of 
Coupeville, the shipping point for the 
products of the Island. From here one 
has a view of the Olympic mountains in 
the distance. 

East of Everett, up the river, is the 
town of Snohomish, where are large 
shingle and saw mills. 

I now leave this bright and enter- 
prising town and draw my readers' at- 
tention to Seattle. 

130 



SEATTLE, THE CITY 
OF DESTINY 



CHAPTER XVI. 
Seattle, the City of Destiny. 

Seattle, the metropolis of the State 
of Washington, is situated on Elliott 
Bay, on the eastern shore of Puget 
Sound. Its population has doubled in 
the last five years, caused by the won- 
derful influx of Alaska gold, as it is 
the headquarters for outfitting, and 
controls the trade of Alaska and the 
Yukon territory, and is also the base 
of supplies for the Puget Sound navy 
yard. It has the best navy dry-dock on 
the Pacific Coast and the largest dry- 
dock in the United States. The battle- 
ship Nebraska is now under construc- 
tion here for the American government. 

More than seventy steamers are en- 
gaged, this being the center of the 
Sound steamship traffic, besides lines 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

of steamships to Japan and the Orient. 
The great transcontinental railroads 
meet the ships of the world in the com- 
merce of the Pacific, being- the shortest 
route between New York and the Asi- 
atic harbors. 

There are extensive flour mills here. 
It is the center of the lumber industries 
and leads in shipbuilding in the Pacific 
Northwest. Seattle is the base of sup- 
plies for the salmon and deep sea fish- 
eries and is surrounded by a great num- 
ber of valuable coal mines. 

Some of the towns near here are very- 
important, the principal ones being Is- 
saquah, Black Diamond, Newcastle and 
Roslyn, east of the Cascade mountains. 
The largest lumber mills in the United 
states are at Port Blakely, which has 
an extensive foreign trade. At Port 
Gamble and Port Ludlow are immense 
saw milling plants. Near Port Orch- 

134 



Seattle, the City of Destiny 

ard is Bremerton, the United States na- 
val station. The City of Ballard has 
numerous saw mills and is the greatest 
shingle producing city in the world. 

A government canal will connect Pu- 
get Sound with Lakes Union and 
Washington, at Seattle, providing fresh 
water harbors. 

The army post, Fort Lawton, is at 
Magnolia Bluff. 

Seattle has every reason to be proud 
of her school system. In addition to 
her public schools is the magnificent 
university, endowed by the state. The 
city is blessed with a delightfully even 
climate, grand scenery, with a fine nat- 
ural harbor, protected from storms, and 
the largest vessels afloat can come into 
its docks at all stages of tide. 

On going up and down the streets 
and seeing the crowds of people, each 
one attending to his or her line of bus- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

iness, with such a rush and stir, trains 
coming' and going in all directions, 
crowded with passengers from every 
nation, and laden with freight from its 
own and central states for shipment 
to foreign countries, vessels being con- 
tinuously loaded and unloaded at its 
numerous docks and wharves, and bus- 
ily plying back and forth on that im- 
mense inland sea, both for the local and 
the Oriental trans-Pacific trade, with 
lumber, coal, fruit and fish at its com- 
mand, backed by its enterprising citi- 
zens, one must exclaim that nature has 
thus evidently marked out the city of 
exalted destinies. 



136 



TACOMA, AND OLYMPIA, THE 
CAPITAL OF WASHINGTON 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Tacoma, and Olympia, the Capital of 
Washington. 

The City of Tacoma, where I made 
my next stop, is beautifully situated on 
Commencement Bay, on the east side 
of Puget Sound. 

Here are the great terminal shops of 
the Northern Pacific Railroad. This 
company has built immense elevators 
and warehouses, and from their docks 
shipments of wheat and flour are made 
to the Orient, the same company also 
having their fast passenger and freight 
steamships', that make their regular 
trips on the waters of the Pacific Ocean. 

Tacoma has numerous saw mills and 
an enormous business in the manufac- 
ture and shipment of lumber. Here is 
the country of big trees ; unsurpassed in 
size are the fir, cedar, pine and other 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

timber used for the manufacture of 
shingles and lumber. Across the Sound 
is the lumbering town of Shelton. 
There are numerous coal mines adja- 
cent, the principal ones being at the 
towns of Carbonado, Wilkeson and 
Pittsburg. 

Near here are the great fruit sec- 
tions of Puyallup, Buckley, Auburn, 
Sumner and Orting, all increasing the 
immense trade of Tacoma. 

The hunting and fishing are practi- 
cally unlimited. The climate is salu- 
brious, seldom freezing weather and 
never very hot, being both a glorious 
and perpetual summer and winter re- 
sort. 

I viewed from the Tacoma hotel the 
unsurpassed scenery across the beauti- 
ful harbor and level expanse, and that 
giant, far-famed and widely known Ta- 



140 



Tacoma and Olympia 

coma's proud snow-capped peak, tow- 
ering 14,532 feet above the sea level. 

Near the city is Steilacoom, where is 
located the State Western Insane Asy- 
lum, the Eastern State Asylum being 
at Medical Lake, near Spokane. 

At the head of Puget Sound, with 
its 2,000 miles of shore line, is Olym- 
pia, the capital of the State of Wash- 
ington. 

Gate City is the junction of the road 
from here and the one branching off 
from Centralia on the main line of the 
Northern Pacific going to Gray's Har- 
bor. 

A short distance further west is the 
lumbering town of Elma, which I take 
a great pride in, on account of its name, 
being, as you see, the same as my own. 
It is a busy little city with important 
railway connections, in addition to its 
thriving lumbering trade. 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

Montesano has also important lum- 
bering industries. 

I now make my second stop at Aber- 
deen, at the head of Gray's Harbor, 
and situated on both sides of the Che- 
halis river, where vessels are constant- 
ly being loaded with lumber and ship- 
ped to San Francisco and foreign ports. 
Also the saw mills are kept continually 
in operation, furnishing the manufac- 
tured lumber for shipment by train to 
eastern markets. Here is the home of 
that beautiful bird called "Glebe," from 
the breasts of which are made magnif- 
icent shoulder capes. 

I made a trip over to Cosmopolis on 
the gasoline launch Maud S., and an- 
other trip by boat to South Aberdeen, 
and they, as well as Hoquiam, were one 
continual bustle in the manufacture and 
shipment of lumber. "Ocosta by the 
Sea" and the summer resort of West- 

142 



Tacoma and Olympia 

port, constitute the towns of this pros- 
perous inland sea of Gray's Harbor. 

I then went to Centralia and Buco- 
da, where I found the same stir in the 
sawing and shipment of lumber. 

At Chehalis is still lumbering indus- 
tries, and the junction, branching off 
to South Bend, on Willapa Harbor, 
where is the home of the oysters. 

At Long Beach is a fashionable sum- 
mer resort. 

At the mouth of that great and glo- 
rious Columbia river, which gives pros- 
perity to Washington and Oregon, is 
Ilwaco, with salmon fisheries and can- 
neries'. 

At Castle Rock, Kelso and Kalama 
may be heard the buzz of the saw, dem- 
onstrating the manufacture of lumber. 

I will now take my reader with me 
for a brief stop at Portland, Oregon. 



143 



NORTHERN OREGON, SOUTHERN 
AND EASTERN IDAHO 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Northern Oregon, Southern and Eastern 
Idaho. 

The air in Portland did certainly 
seem good to me ; the mist was coming 
down gently, yet constantly, just mak- 
ing enough mud to be noticed. I kept 
my windows open day and night and in 
the morning woke up feeling so refresh- 
ed and bright from inhaling that pure 
and balmy November air. 

I noticed that the people of Portland, 
and in fact the entire State, were mak- 
ing great preparations to celebrate the 
Lewis and Clarke Exposition in 1905. 
There I will commemorate the hun- 
dredth anniversary of the Lewis and 
Clarke explorations of the glorious 
West; when people will congregate 
from every nation to enjoy Oregon's 
delightful climate and witness the great 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

prosperity and advancement of the yet 
young country. 

After a two weeks' pleasant sojourn 
in the city, I went east over the Oregon 
Railroad and Navigation, 231 miles, to 
Pendleton, a city busy with the ship- 
ments of wheat, cattle and sheep, prod- 
ucts of the great stock and agricultural 
country surrounding. Here a branch of 
the Oregon Railroad and Navigation 
runs north to Walla Walla, the Palouse 
country and Spokane, Washington. 

La Grande has a beet sugar factory, 
with immense stock raising. 

A branch road runs to Elgin, in the 
Grand Ronde valley, and the Wallowa 
country. 

East of La Grande is the celebrated 
Hot Lake, a natural flow of hot water 
coming from the mountain side, spread- 
ing itself out into a large lake, whose 
medicinal properties are very beneficial. 

148 



Northern Oregon, Southern Idaho 

Union has valuable stock interests. 

At Baker City I had a home feeling 
from again being among rich and val- 
uable mines, there being many rich 
gold producing properties tributary to 
the city. 

Stock raising on a large scale has 
been conducted here, and today great 
herds of cattle and horses roam at will 
over these seemingly boundless ranges, 
and thousands have been shipped and 
are continually being shipped yearly, 
from the extensive surrounding ranges 
of Eastern Oregon. From here a 
branch line extends to Sumpter and 
Whitney, bringing in the ore from the 
rich mines of the Blue Mountains. 

Horses, cattle and sheep from the 
stock ranges of the Burns and Canyon 
City sections all bring prosperity and 
business to Baker City. 



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Leaves of Knowledge 

At Huntington is the division point 
and connection of the Oregon Railway 
& Navigation Co. v^ath the Oregon 
Short Line Railroad. 

Here I cross the Snake river, arriv- 
ing at Weiser, Idaho. This town is the 
outlet of the Seven Devils mines, a 
branch line having been finished as far 
as Council. The smelter for the mines 
is built adjoining Weiser, and the en- 
tire section is prospering raising fruit, 
aided by irrigation. Between Weiser 
and Payette is one beautiful stretch of 
fruit trees, melon patches and every va- 
riety of fruit that can be grown in a 
mild, temperate climate, interspersed 
with fields of alfalfa, from which are 
cut four crops of hay a year, averaging 
two tons per acre for each crop. The 
Payette river empties into Snake river, 
making abundance of water for irrigat- 
ing purposes, consequently the whole 

150 



Northern Oregon, Southern Idaho 

valle_y, as well as Payette, is very pros- 
perous. 

The railroad again crosses the Snake 
river into Oregon before it reaches On- 
tario. Near here the Malheur river 
joins the Snake, which I soon again 
crossed, arriving at Palma, Idaho. 
There, and at Caldwell, is the same 
rich country, made productive by irri- 
gation, from the waters of the Snake 
river and its tributaries. 

Arriving at Nampa, Idaho, I gaze 
in wonderment, for the sage brush is 
entirely gone, and in its place are the 
broad fields of hay, grain, and all kinds 
of fruit. There is no uncertainty what- 
ever as to the future of these irrigable 
lands, with the impounding of the flood 
waters of the streams, so that the an- 
nual wastage may be saved and util- 
ized at the season of irrigation. Pas- 
tures verdant and beautiful, orchards 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

of luscious fruits, fields of waving 
grain, and homes ornamented with 
vines and flowers has succeeded the 
gray areas of sage brush, through the 
efforts of this bright and enterprising 
class of people. And for the climate I 
will state it is one that is healthy, brac- 
ing and invigorating. Nampa has the 
Dewey Palace, which is unsurpassed in 
architectural design by any hotel in the 
West. 

Here also has been erected an elegant 
depot by the Oregon Short Line Rail- 
road Company, as this is an important 
railroad center, with a line extending 
south to Murphy, the distributing point 
for the rich gold and silver mines of 
Silver City. To the north extends an- 
other line, through the valleys to Em- 
mett, the supply point for the tributary 
lumber sections. This is also a rich 
fruit country and is surrounded by val- 

152 



Northern Oregon, Southern Idaho 

uable mines. Also from Nampa, the 
Boise special runs to the capital, a dis- 
tance of twenty miles, passing Meri- 
dian, where a large creamery is in op- 
eration; and through extensive fruit 
farms. 

From Nampa I passed through 
Mountain Home and Glenn's Ferry and 
on to Shoshone, where a branch line 
extends north to Bellevue and the sil- 
ver mining towns of Hailey and Ketch- 
um. South on the Snake river is Sho- 
shone Falls, from which extensive elec- 
tric power is being developed. At 
American Falls is another power plant. 
Here I again cross that noted Snake 
river and stop at Pocatello, the second 
city of Idaho. 

Pocatello is the great division 
headquarters for the Oregon Short 
Line system, and where immense rail- 
road shops have been constructed to 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

handle the business extending east and 
west, north and south from Butte 
to Salt Lake City. The road crosses 
here nearly at right angles. It has a 
State school, substantial business blocks 
and commodious homes. Pocatello has 
valuable mines in the vicinity and the 
whole section is engaged in stock rais- 
ing. 

East of here is Soda Springs, then 
Montpelier, the outlet for the Bear 
Lake valley, and, with Paris, on Bear 
Lake, and Malade, on the south, are 
the largest southeastern Idaho towns. 

On the line north is Blackfoot, 
where is located the State asylum. 
Blackfoot has a branch line running to 
the town of Mackay, where smelters 
work the ores of the mines of central 
Idaho. 

I inhale the sweet perfume of sage 
brush as I run along to Idaho Falls. I 

154 



Northern Oregon, Southern Idaho 

found great improvements had been 
made here, being a great vegetable 
raising country, made productive by 
irrigation. Its progressive citizens 
have since put in a beet sugar factory, 
in fact "the half has never been told" 
of the improvements I notice each 
and every time as I pass through the 
many Idaho towns. 

A branch line runs from here to Rex- 
burg and St. Anthony, where, by the 
construction of ditches and canals for 
irrigating purposes, the waters of the 
Snake river are utilized. If my read- 
ers have followed me, they will find 
this river in evidence in three different 
States, Idaho, Oregon and Washing- 
ton, where it connects with the Colum- 
bia at Pasco. And in many sections, by 
the aid of irrigation, it has made the 
sage brush desert change to productive 
farms, thriving villages and populous 

155 



Leaves of Knowledge 

towns. I will now go back to that 
"Dear Butte," to have my second 
Thanksgiving dinner, and celebrate the 
holidays with my many friends, having 
traveled on different railroads a total 
distance of twenty-seven thousand, sev- 
en hundred and four miles, during the 
last year. 



156 



EASTERN TRIP TO 
ST. LOUIS 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Ea^ern Trip to St. Louis. 

After a delightful trip of over two 
months, in the warm and moist climate 
of the Pacific Coast, I arrive back home 
to find snow, and as usual the smoke. 
But for all we have the disagreeable 
smoke caused by the smelters, from 
which we get the fumes of arsenic and 
sulphur, it still seems to be invigorat- 
ing, and gives activity to the brain, for 
the people of Butte show more life 
than I find elsewhere, and there is more 
stir than in any city in America, ac- 
cording to its population. Its streets 
are always crowded with busy, well 
dressed citizens, who all have plenty 
of money, regardless of their vocation, 
and certainly know how to enjoy them- 
selves. I remained in Butte until May 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

12, 1903, when I took the Burlington 
for an eastern trip, and was treated with 
every courtesy over their system. I 
went over the Northern Pacific track 
as far as BilHngs, where I changed to 
their own Hne, and after riding about 
fifty miles I passed Fort Custer, near 
the Crow agency, and the monuments 
which mark the spot where General 
Custer and his followers were massa- 
cred by the Indians. 

Formerly I have described every city 
and important town, as I saw them, and 
knew the conditions thereof. From 
now on I will explain any important 
place as I pass through, with a fuller 
description of the places where I stop 
to gratify my own enjoyment. 

I now leave Montana and pass 
through the coal mining town of Sher- 
idan, Wyoming, At Edgemont, South 
Dakota, a branch line extends north to 

160 



Eastern Trip to St. Louis 

Deadwood, and the famous gold mines 
of the Black Hills. 

From Alliance, Nebraska, a branch 
extends south to Denver, Colorado, 
with connections to Cheyenne and Lar- 
amie, Wyoming. 

I made a short stop at Lincoln, Ne- 
braska, where one branch extends to 
Omaha and Council Bluffs, Iowa. At 
St. Joseph, Missouri, I was detained 
for some time within two miles of the 
depot. Our train had been running at 
the rate of sixty miles an hour to make 
up for lost time, and on stopping at a 
little station, smash went the front 
wheel of our engine. This caused the 
passengers to all look serious, when 
each one thought what might have been 
had the wheel gone to pieces when we 
were running at such speed, as the 
trainmen claimed that the wheel had 
been broken for some time, but did not 

161 



Leaves of Knowledge 



go to pieces on account of its great ve- 
locity. After awhile a freight train 
came along and pushed us into the de- 
pot. I was in St. Joe long enough to 
have lunch, ice cream soda, and to be 
one of the spectators at a very lively 
runaway. 

Our train going to Kansas City, I 
changed cars going on to St. Louis, 
where I stopped to view the city and 
the preparations being made for the 
commemoration of the one hundredth 
anniversary of the Louisiana Purchase, 
whereby our government acquired what 
now consists of fourteen states and 
territories, among them the greater por- 
tion of our noble State of Montana. 

St. Louis is on the west bank of the 
Mississippi river, through which an 
immense traffic is carried on, both 
north to its head and south to New Or- 
leans, and its mouth at the Gulf of 

162 



Eastern Trip to St. Louis 

Mexico. There are also twenty-seven 
different lines of railway, carrying pas- 
sengers and freight in all directions. 
This city has the largest union depot 
on earth, erected at a cost of six million 
and a half dollars. 

St. Louis is the fourth city in popu- 
lation in the United States, being a 
great commercial, manufacturing and 
wholesale market. The exposition will 
cost fifty million dollars, and Vv^ill have 
under cover over one hundred acres of 
floor space for exhibits, and has en- 
closed by fences twelve hundred and 
forty acres, and there are over three 
hundred separate buildings, ranging 
from eighteen acres down to the small- 
er ones. 

The "Pike" will be to the fair, of 
1904 what the famous "Midway" was 
to the fair of 1893, and the "Ivory 



163 



Leaves of Knowledge 

City" of St. Louis will be even more 
amazing than was the wonderful 
"White City" of Chicago. 



164 



HISTORIC SCENES ON 
THE POTOMAC 



CHAPTER XX. 
Historic Scenes on the Potomac. 

From St. Louis I take the Baltimore 
& Ohio Railroad, crossing the Missis- 
sippi river, pass through southern Il- 
linois, Indiana, and stop at Cincinnati, 
Ohio, the great manufacturing city on 
the Ohio river and the metropolis of 
that valley. I cross the Ohio river, at 
Parkersburg, West Virginia, where this 
railroad figured prominently, from here 
to Washington, during the civil war, 
and was in a practical state of seige for 
nearly four years. 

I pass through the numerous oil and 
coal fields in the northern part of the 
State of West Virginia, with a stop at 
Cumberland, Maryland, the largest city 
in the Alleghany Mountains. Cumber- 
land is built on the site of Fort Cum- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

berland, where General Braddock and 
George Washington made their head- 
quarters during the French and Indian 
war. 

Shenandoah Junction was the scene 
of many skirmishes during the civil 
war, and brought back to my mind the 
great war play of "Shenandoah," 
which I saw so beautifully staged at the 
Marquam Grand in Portland, Oregon. 
The next stop was at Harper's Ferry, 
the most picturesque, beautiful and his- 
toric spot in America. Here I got out 
of the car and put my hand on the mon- 
ument which brought back that old song 
to me, "John Brown's body lies a- 
mouldering in the grave," for he, with 
his handful of brave followers, shed the 
first blood, and the monument to him 
stands on the spot where his improvised 
"fort" stood forty years ago. The 
story of the invasion of Harper's Ferry 

168 



Historic Scenes on the Potomac 

is told by the government tablets 
alongside the monument. 

To the right is the Shenandoah riv- 
er, emptying into the Potomac river. 
Across the Shenandoah is the big 
mountain, known as Louden Heights, 
on the Viriginia side. Back of the town 
is Bolivar Heights. Crossing the steel 
bridge over the Potomac, passing 
through a tunnel cut through the base 
of Maryland Heights, I reach Weaver- 
ton, where General Burnside crossed 
the railroad, en route to Washington, 
from the battle of Antietam. 

At Brunswick, terminals and railroad 
yards of the Baltimore & Ohio Rail- 
road, is where General Meade's army 
recrossed the Potomac on the return 
from the battle of Gettysburg to Wash- 
ington. 

Point of Rocks is one of the most pic- 
turesque sections of Maryland. Here 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

the railroad leaves the Potomac river, 
having been in companionship for near- 
ly one hundred and fifty miles. During 
the civil war this part of the country 
was constantly occupied by both armies, 
crossing and recrossing the Potomac at 
this place, occasioning many skirmishes. 

Fourteen miles north of Washington 
Junction, on Frederick Branch, is Fred- 
erick, the old home of "Barbara Friet- 
chie," who was so patriotic, waving her 
union flag while the Southern forces 
were passing her residence. It came 
very forcibly to my mind, almost fancy- 
ing I could see her, as scarcely a year 
before I had seen it so completely rep- 
resented at the Broadway Theater at 
Butte, Montana, 

This day's ride was thoroughly in- 
teresting, and I will say it is worth both 
the time and money one spends to view 
what was once the old battlefields, and 

170 



Historic Scenes on the Potomac 

to yet see some of the old stone castles 
that were at one time ocupied by the 
southern aristocracy. 

The employes of this road made 
themselves very entertaining, by ex- 
plaining and pointing out every place 
of interest to the many passengers. This 
was the first railroad built in America, 
dating its existence from 1828, the 
first to have steam locomoHiives and 
first to use telegraph lines. 

I sat in the "observation end of the 
car" all day, viewing the historical 
scenes associated with the French and 
Indian War, the Revolutionary War, 
the War of 1812 and the Civil War, 
and heard the explanations. I at times 
would almost fancy I could see those 
soldiers on the battlefield, crossing the 
Potomac river at early sunrise, and 
hear the roar of the artillery. But the 
scene has changed since then, and hap- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

piness prevails under one g-overnment, 
one flag and one National Capital, 
which I now reach, Washington, the 
District of Columbia. 



172 



WASHINGTON, D. C, THE 
NATION'S CAPITAL 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Washington, D. C, the Nation's 
Capital. 

The wealth and love of the American 
people contribute to the increasing glory 
of the Queenly Washington, such a visit 
as mine sets the heart on fire with great- 
er devotion, broadens the conception of 
our country's greatness and quickens 
into action our lofty patriotism. 

One pleasant afternoon I enjoyed a 
delightful tour of the city on the "See- 
ing Washington Car," and heard ex- 
plained a thousand points of interest 
during my twenty-five miles of sight- 
seeing. This car affords visitors a 
luxurious and quick way of seeing 
Washington, and viewing from com- 
fortable, restful environments the pub- 
lic buildings, the grand boulevards, the 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

residences of noble men of the past and 
of the present, the beautiful parks, the 
magnificent monuments, the picturesque 
Potomac river, the quaint negro scenes 
on market days, the historic spots and 
the twentieth century business sections 
of the city. 

I visited all the principal public build- 
ings and saw the beautiful architectural 
designs of the Congressional Library 
in the evening, the Capitol Building, 
the White House, Treasury Depart- 
ment, War, State and Navy Buildings, 
Pension, Patent and Government Print- 
ing Office, and viewed the Monument 
and Statue of General Washington, La- 
fayette Statue and Square, Farragiit 
Statue and Square, Peace Monument, 
Jackson Statue, Garfield Statue, Monu- 
ment of Lincoln, Slave Statue, the park 
where annually Emancipation Day is 
observed, and all those numerous 

176 



Washington, D. C, the Nation's Capital 

monuments and statues erected to the 
memory of noble heroes. I was at the 
Baltimore and Potomac Depot and 
viewed the room where President 
Garfield was shot, looking through 
the window to the street from 
which Guiteau watched for the approach 
of the President. The spot used to be 
marked by a large silver star, but it had 
to be removed on account of the throngs 
of people continually around it. 

I was at Ford's Theatre, now being 
used as a museum, where President 
Lincoln was assassinated. The house 
across the street has its flag still waving 
from the window of the room in which 
the president died. 

The Smithsonian Institute and Na- 
tional Museum were also very interest- 
ing. While here I visited a number of 
the near-by places of interest. My first 
trip was across the Potomac river to 

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eaves of Knowled 



g e 



the Arlington cemetery, State of Vir- 
ginia. On leaving the street car and the 
massive iron gates, which swung ajar 
as I passed through, I stood in wonder- 
ment, gazing as far as the eye could 
reach over one continuous mass of little 
headstones, I should judge about two 
feet high, relieved here and there by an 
immense monument that friends of the 
departed had placed to their memory. I 
passed on down the broad walk, stop- 
ping to talk with several gravediggers, 
who were busily employed preparing 
the narrow resting places for more of 
those noble boys who had given their 
lives for their country. I was told by 
the attendants that there were nineteen 
thousand reposing within this block of 
ground, who at one time had defended 
the nation. 

The manager and wife having a mu- 
tual friend of mine in Butte, and having 

178 



Washington, D. C, the Nation's Capital 

previously been in Montana, made 
many inquiries about the west, and did 
everything in their power to make it 
pleasant for me, not only showing me 
everything connected with the cemetery 
but also the entire grounds and the 
buildings that were formerly occupied 
by General Robert E. Lee, commander 
of the Confederate army. And while 
we were chatting. Major Drum 
drew my attention to the fact that this 
was the room, and pointed to the spot 
where the general stood when he was 
married. On leaving the premises, the 
major and wife accompanied me to the 
car line, pointing out the graves of not- 
ed men. One of these coming to my 
mind, I asked to be shown the resting 
place of that brave General Lawton, for 
I was deeply interested and much con- 
cerned on reading the account of his 
death. I do not know why, but seem- 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

ingly I always had a desire to see the 
grave of him who gave his Hfe so fear- 
lessly, and was dealt with so treacher- 
ously by the Filipinos, 

I may say that the officials at our na- 
tion's capital were cordial and atten- 
tive, doing everything possible to make 
it pleasant and to show me all that 
might interest me. 

At Mt. Vernon is the burial place of 
our first president and general, George 
Washington. 

Annapolis, the capital of Maryland, 
on Chesapeake Bay, has the United 
States Naval Academy. 

Baltimore is the metropolis, seaport 
and principal manufacturing center of 
the State of Maryland. 

I crossed the Susquehanna river, at 
the head of Chesapeake Bay, on the 
Delaware river, to Wilmington, the 
largest city of the State of Delaware, 

180 



Washington, D. C, the Nation's Capital 

having an excellent harbor. The noted 
Dupont gunpowder works are near by. 

Up the Delaware river is Philadel- 
phia, the largest city of the State of 
Pennsylvania and the third city in the 
United States in population and manu- 
factures, the center of foreign, domes- 
tic and coast trade. 

I then crossed over to Trenton, the 
capital of New Jersey, and through the 
town of New Brunswick, in the central 
portion of the state, to Newark, the 
largest city, and on to Jersey City, the 
terminus of railway and steamship 
lines, to that largest city on the west- 
ern hemisphere and the second in the 
world. Greater New York. 



181 



GREATER NEW YORK 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Greater New York. 

On visiting all other cities I could 
draw a comparison, but New York is 
a city of itself. None other exists like 
it, with its steel structures looming sky- 
ward twenty and sometimes thirty sto- 
ries high. As I looked from my room 
window in the hotel, it seemed but one 
vast sea of buildings, and in the even- 
ing it was rather amusing to see men, 
women and children coming up on the 
flat roofed houses, from little thatched 
doors, to get a breath of fresh air, and 
even the dogs, without a play-ground, 
would be on the roofs in the day-time. 
And to look at the electric lights in 
some of the office blocks at eventide 
was like looking at the stars. 



185 



Leaves of Knowledge 

I visited the stock exchange, the 
sub-treasury building, Wall street, 
that financial center controlling the 
world; and to and fro the entire 
length of busy Broadway, with its em- 
poriums rivalling those of any city of 
the globe, and the Fifth avenue drive- 
way, with its magnificent homes. One 
that surpassed them all was in course 
of construction, and was one that I took 
great interest in examining, on account 
of it belonging to our home citizen and 
United States senator from Montana, 
W. A. Clark. 

To get a general idea of New York, 
take its "Seeing New York Automo- 
biles and Coaches," visiting the historic 
section, in its Dutch, British and Amer- 
ican periods; the Bowery, Chinatown, 
Brooklyn, Castle Garden, Central Park, 
the Grand Boulevards, the historic 
Hudson river, Columbia University, 

186 



Greater New York 

General Grant's tomb, statues of Chris- 
topher Columbus and William Shakes- 
peare. And take the "Seeing Yacht," 
encircling the island of Manhatton, 
showing the statue of Liberty, Black- 
well's island, Jersey City, Brooklyn, 
Harlem, Bronx, the navy yard, the 
ocean liners and the wharves, with their 
commerce and extensive shipping inter- 
ests, 

I must mention a few amusing inci- 
dents that came personally to my no- 
tice, during my three week's sojourn in 
New York, to show how many ignorant 
people this immense city contains and 
what little idea they have of the magni- 
tude of the country beyond its borders. 
While out in company one evening 
a young gentleman asked me if we had 
any pianos in Montana. I had him re- 
peat his question, thinking he surely 
could not mean what he was saying, 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

but when I saw he really meant what 
he said, I looked at him for a moment 
then said, **YES, we have pianos in 
Montana, and people that can perform 
on them," for this same New Yorker 
had been trying to entertain us all the 
evening on a fine instrument, but the 
music would make anyone want to 
leave home. 

At another time I happened in a 
friend's office. He was called to the 
telephone while I was there, and after 
he had finished his conversation, he 
turned to me and said, "J^st think of it, 
I have been talking to a party nine miles 
away!" I suppose he thought I had 
never seen a telephone and would run 
when I heard the bell ring. I looked at 
him in amazement, for I had talked 
over the "phone" a distance of seven 
hundred miles, many times in my west- 
ern home. 

188 



GV eater New York 

To get on a street car was perfectly 
disgusting, as I never before, in all my 
travels saw men — I cannot call them 
gentlemen — keep seated in a street car 
and allow ladies to stand for miles, 
holding onto the straps. I would say 
to these people that they need to travel 
some and broaden their narrow minded 
ideas. If one of those men were rid- 
ing on our street cars in Butte, he 
would be made to feel so uncomfort- 
able, that he would stand up or get off 
at the next corner. I will add further, 
that in a business way, it does seem 
pitiful to see old gray headed men, who 
have brought up their sons and even 
their grandsons in the same line, work- 
ing along like machines, doing what 
someone else tells them to do. I found 
very few men who knew their own indi- 
viduality; instead of stopping to think 
and using their own brains, they allow 

189 



Leaves of Knowledge 

others to think for them, looking only 
to their present compensation, instead 
of accomplishing something for them- 
selves. 

After visiting the principal places of 
interest in New York and Brooklyn, I 
took "The Bay State Limited," for 
Boston, Massachusetts. 



190 



BOSTON, THE EASTERN HUB 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
Boston, the Eastern Hub. 

I passed on the way through the 
State of Connecticut, with a short stop 
at the "Elm City" and metropoHs, New 
Haven, an important commercial and 
manufacturing center. I also stopped 
at Providence, the capital and largest 
city of Rhode Island, where there are 
important shipping interests. 

I arrived at Boston, the capital and 
largest city in the State of Massachu- 
setts, and fifth city of the nation. Bos- 
ton is one of the chief commercial and 
literary cities of America; has an ex- 
tensive foreign and coasting trade, with 
numerous steamship lines' and is the 
terminus of many railroads. While 
here I visited all the important and in- 
teresting parts of original Boston, 

193 



Leaves of Knowledge 

Charleston, Somerville, Back Bay, 
Cambridge and Brookline, Also State 
street, famous in history, and the state 
capitol, where hundreds of flags of the 
Indian, Revolutionary and Civil Wars 
are kept for public inspection, showing, 
all tattered and torn and with many 
blood stains, what the early settlers of 
this patriotic city had to undergo. 

I also visited the site of Bunker Hill, 
Bunker Hill monument, Harvard uni- 
versity, Boston public gardens, Faneuil 
hall, public library, art galleries and 
many monuments and statues. 

One day, as I was viewing the statue 
of a long since departed hero, a Bos- 
tonian eastern friend, who was show- 
ing me the sights of the city, said: 
"You have nothing like this in the 
west." I appeared to be sad, and said 
"No." He looked at me with pity, 
which caused me to smile, remarking 

194 



Boston, the Eastern Hub 

that I had noticed that here and else- 
where in the east, the heroes had mon- 
uments or statues erected to their mem- 
ory, whilst our heroes in the west were 
alive and above ground, and did not 
need statues or monuments. And as I 
had found practically an entire city 
from Washington to Boston, I decided 
that some of the people should go be- 
yond the Missouri, to the Rockies or 
the Pacific Coast, and get their ideas en- 
larged and advance with that bright and 
enterprising class of people, that are 
pushing ahead and building up the most 
prosperous' section of our nation. 

The State of Massachusetts has 
numerous important manufacturing 
towns, the principal ones being Lowell, 
Fall River, Holyoke and Lawrence, 
having extensive cotton factories ; Wor- 
cester, Springfield and Taunton, with 
iron and steel industries; Lynn, boot, 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

shoe and harness factories. Also the 
important fishing towns of Gloucester, 
Yarmouth and Provincetown. 

It has over three hundred miles of 
coast line, bordering on the Atlantic 
ocean, with the principal harbors at 
Boston, Salem, Beverly, New Bedford 
and Marblehead. 

Shipbuilding is largely carried on at 
Boston, Newburyport and Essex. The 
largest arsenal and armory in the Unit- 
ed States is at Springfield. The State 
has numerous universities, colleges and 
normal schools, in addition to its excel- 
lent public schools. Boston is well sup- 
plied with depots. Besides numerous 
smaller ones, it has the beautiful New 
South Terminal station of the Michi- 
gan Central, Boston and Albany, and 
New York Central Railways, which is 
one of the finest and largest railway de- 
pots in the world, and is conveniently 

196 



Boston, the Eastern Hub 

located to the center of the city; and 
the large union depot of the Boston 
and Maine Railroad, from where I left, 
one warm June evening, wending my 
way along the coast of New Hamp- 
shire, through the State of Maine, and 
across the Canadian border, to Fred- 
ericton. New Brunswick. 



197 



FREDERICTON AND THE 
MARITIME PROVINCES 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

Fredericton and the Maritime 
Provinces. 

I remained most of the summer at 
hotel "Windsor Hall," which is cen- 
trally located, and the most modern in 
the city, surrounded by the most beau- 
tiful shade trees, lawn and balcony, 
making it a perfect spot to while away 
the summer months. Every attention 
was rendered to aid in my enjoyment 
and I found everything pleasing at this 
fashionable resort. 

Fredericton, the capital and port of 
entry of the Province of New Bruns- 
wick, is situated on a beautiful point of 
land known as St. Ann's Point, on the 
St. John river, eighty-five miles from 
its mouth. 



201 



Leaves of Knowledge 

Here are the capitol buildings, in- 
cluding a fine public library; and the 
crown land office, where a fine collec- 
tion of birds and wild game of the 
Province may be seen. 

Fredericton is the headquarters of 
the Royal Canadian Regiment for New 
Brunswick. 

The university of New Brunswick, 
the Provincial normal school, as well as 
its excellent public schools are endow- 
ed by the province, and in fact all the 
schools are partly supported by a gov- 
ernment allowance. 

It has a large shoe factory, tannery, 
iron foundry and carriage factories, 
and adjoining, both above and below 
the city, are extensive sawmills. 

Three miles from Fredericton is the 
manufacturing town of Marysville, 
with large cotton factory, flour and 
saw mills. 

202 



Fredericton and the Maritime Provinces 

Fredericton has connection with the 
Canadian Pacific, from its main line, 
at Fredericton Junction; the same rail- 
road also crosses the river on a steel 
bridge, and extends to Woodstock, 
Grand Falls and Edmundston, through 
the Province, and connects at Rivere du 
Loup, Province of Quebec, v^ith the 
Intercolonial Railway, which is a gov- 
ernment railroad. The Canada Eastern 
Railway connects at Chatham Junction 
with the Intercolonial, traversing the 
central portion of the province. Four 
miles up the river is the Douglas Boom 
for the rafting of logs that come down 
the river St. John and its tributaries, 
and after being rafted are towed to the 
mouth of the river, where they are saw- 
ed into lumber and shipped to all parts 
of the world. 

Fredericton is an ideal spot, with its 
magnificent homes, beautiful lawns and 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

shade trees and its many driveways, ex- 
tending across the bridge to St. Mary's, 
Gibson, Marysville and on up that pic- 
turesque and beautiful Nashwaak val- 
ley, where I had many, many drives, 
and where I enjoyed a picnic one fine 
summer afternoon upon the lawn in the 
grove, in front of the magnificent resi- 
dence of Mr, M. White, the most de- 
lightful spot along the whole valley, 
with its broad productive intervals 
skirting the river. Then another pleas- 
ant drive is passing Nashwaaksis, and 
through Douglas, viewing the numer- 
ous islands, along the St. John river 
to the mouth of the Keswick, the 
branches of the fruit trees hanging to 
the ground under their heavy loads of 
delicious fruits. 

Another pleasant time was the pri- 
vate picnic held on the lawns at the 
Old Government House, where the 

204 



Fredericton and the Maritime Provinces 

present king of England was entertain- 
ed during his visit to Fredericton. 

I had a dehghtful sail on the steam- 
er Victoria, down the river to the city 
of St. John, an important seaport with 
extensive maritime and manufacturing 
interests, sawmills, shipyards and iron 
foundries. St. John is a railway cen- 
ter, having the eastern transportation 
and shipping business of the Canadian 
Pacific. 

The Intercolonial Railway has its 
headquarters at Moncton. Across 
Northumberland Strait is the Province 
of Prince Edward Island. The capital 
and principal city is Charlottetown. 

South across the Bay of Fundy is the 
Province of Nova Scotia, which, with 
the other two mentioned, constitute the 
Maritime Provinces. Its capital and 
chief winter port is Halifax, which has 
the principal naval station, and is' the 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

headquarters of the imperial army in 
British North America. 

After my sight seeing in this section, 
I returned to Fredericton, and making 
my final adieus, I departed on the Ca- 
nadian Pacific for Augusta, Maine. 



206 



WESTWARD TO CHICAGO 



CHAPTER XXV. 
Westward to Chicago. 

Passing through Bangor, the port of 
entry, at the head of steam navigation 
on the Penobscot river, I reach the cap- 
ital of the State of Maine. I visited 
the capitol buildings and several feat- 
ures of interest in this rustling and en- 
terprising city of Augusta. 

Portland, the largest city and most 
important seaport of the state, has a 
valuable coast trade, with fisheries and 
manufactures, besides being a promi- 
nent railroad terminus. While here I 
took several car rides, seeing all I 
could of the city for I had been led to 
believe that Portland, Oregon, and 
Portland, Maine, were similar, but I 
will think so no more, for I must say 
I was disappointed with Portland, Me. 

209 



L e a ves of Knowledge 

I passed on through Portsmouth, the 
only seaport in the State of New Hamp- 
shire, having an excellent harbor and 
considerable shipbuilding interests. 
This is also a famous summer resort. 
Reaching Boston, I took the Fitchburg 
route, changing at Troy, for Albany, 
the capital of the State of New York. 

The city is at the head of navigation 
of the Hudson river, and is one of the 
most interesting in America, with its 
commerce passing through its "open 
door" down the historic Hudson river, 
through the Erie canal and over the 
New York Central lines. 

I visited the capitol building and 
other places of interest surrounding* 
the city. Down the river are the towns 
of Kingston and Poughkeepsie and the 
United States Military Academy at 
West Point. A short distance west 
is Schnectady, where is located 

210 



Westward to Chicago 

the General Electric Company, that 
manufactures the greatest amount 
of electrical appliances in the 
world. The second largest locomo- 
tive works on the globe are also located 
here. Still further west is Utica, then 
Syracuse, a manufacturing and import- 
ant railroad center. Passing the man- 
ufacturing city of Rochester, brings me 
to Niagara Falls, the crowning glory 
of the State of New York, and the 
greatest cataract on the American con- 
tinent. 

Buffalo, the second city in the State 
of New York, has extensive lake com- 
merce in grain, live-stock, coal and lum- 
ber trade. 

Erie, Pennsylvania, is a port of en- 
try on Lake Erie, having extensive 
iron manufactures and a large trade. 

Cleveland, Ohio, has important 
steamboat and railroad traffic, with 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

large oil refineries, iron and steel man- 
ufactories. 

Toledo, on Lake Erie, has a fine har- 
bor with important commerce. 

I pass through the manufacturing 
town of South Bend, Indiana, on to 
Chicago, having a very pleasant trip 
over the New York Central, and Lake 
Shore and Michigan Southern Rail- 
roads, where the finest equipped Pull- 
man sleeping and parlor cars, the most 
delicious and appetizing meals were 
served in the dining cars, and the em- 
ployes devote their entire time, giving 
every attention and comfort to its many 
passengers. 

Chicago is the second city in the 
United States, made so by its energetic 
citizens and the enormous trade on the 
Great Lakes, in addition to its railroads, 
extending in every direction over the 
continent. When I was here in 1893, 

212 



Westward to Chicago 

attending the World's Fair, I made a 
trip east via. Detroit, Michigan, the 
City of the Straits, with its busy fac- 
tories, and Toronto, the capital and 
leading commercial city of the Province 
of Ontario, with Montreal, the metrop- 
olis for the dominion, at the head of 
ocean navigation, and Ottawa, the cap- 
ital of the Dominion of Canada, with its 
extensive lumber trade. Also Quebec, 
the capital of the Province of Quebec, 
with her large exports of lumber and 
shipbuilding industries, and then down 
the St. Lawrence river, which empties 
into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. I then 
realized, with the combined trade of 
the cities south of the Great Lakes on 
the American side, what makes Chicago 
important, controlling the shipping of 
the Great Lakes through Lake Michi- 
gan, and the commerce and manufac- 



213 



Leaves of Knowledge 

turing of the west by its extensive 
railway facilities. 

From Chicago, I go to St. Paul, over 
the Chicago and Northwestern Limit- 
ed — that train of fame — passing Mad- 
ison, the university city and capital of 
the State of Wisconsin. 



214 



ST. PAUL TO LIVINGSTON 



CHAPTER XXVI. 
St. Paul to Livingston. 

St. Paul, the capital of Minnesota, 
and second city in population, is the 
head of navigation of the Mississippi 
river, and an important railroad dis- 
tributing center. Trains connect from 
here with Duluth, at the head of Lake 
Superior, which is a prominent railway 
terminus at the head of navigation on 
the Great Lakes. 

There is also direct railway connec- 
tion with the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
way at Winnipeg, the capital, largest 
city and railroad center of the Province 
of Manitoba, Dominion of Canada. 

At St. Paul is being erected the 
magnificent new capitol building, which 
when completed will give the State of 
Minnesota the most elaborate and sight- 

217 



Leaves of Knowledge 

ly capitol building of any State in the 
Union. 

The city is well supplied with large 
wholesale establishments, fine business 
blocks and beautiful homes. Near here, 
at Stillwater, is the State penitentiary. 

And connected by street car lines, a 
distance of eleven miles west, is the 
city of Minneapolis, the largest in the 
state, with extensive lumber and flour 
mills, operated by the water power of 
the Falls of St. Anthony, and numer- 
ous manufacturing establishments. 

After a pleasant stop in this section, 
I took the "North Coast Limited," on 
the Northern Pacific Railway, and con- 
tinued west through Minnesota. At 
Winnipeg Junction, the Manitoba 
branch runs to Crookston, Minnesota, 
Grand Forks, Grafton and Pembina, 
North Dakota, and Winnipeg, Mani- 
toba. 

218 



St. Paul to Livingston 

Fargo, the first city I reach in North 
Dakota, is the largest in the state, with 
several railway connections and is ex- 
tensively engaged in the sale of agri- 
cultural implements. It is also a great 
wheat market. 

Bismarck, the capital, is situated on 
the Missouri river, where our train 
crosses the river to Mandan, and here 
our time is changed to one hour earlier, 
making it "mountain time." 

The porter awakened me at 4 a. m., 
stating that we were nearing Glendive, 
and as it is the first town we reach in 
my home state, I desired to walk on 
Montana soil after such a long inter- 
mission. 

As I stepped from the Pullman, the 
morning air was so fresh and exhilarat- 
ing. The nights were cool and clear, 
but the days were hotter than any I had 
experienced on my entire eastern trip. 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

It is no wonder that the Montana peo- 
ple are so cheerful, when there is so 
much beautiful sunshine. 

It being the Glendive annual fair 
week, I noticed that the people certain- 
ly know how to enjoy themselves on 
such occasions, with their horse-racing 
and ball games. As I sat on the bal- 
cony of the hotel and watched the nu- 
merous carriages, taking passengers to 
and fro from the fair grounds, and 
there were many on horseback, I 
thought of the places that I had visit- 
ed, and it gave me more pleasure than 
in any town I had visited, to see the 
Glendive citizens celebrate, for every 
time I have been here, I found them all 
happy and having a good time. They 
are a bright, energetic class of people. 

Again taking the Northern Pacific 
west, following the Yellowstone river, 
crossing the Big Horn river, I come in 

220 



St. Paul to Livingston 

view of Pompey's Pillar, climbed and 
named by Captain Clarke of the Lewis 
and Clarke expedition in 1806. I made 
a brief stop at Billings, where every- 
thing was lively, the cattle and sheep 
were being shipped to the stockyards 
and packing houses of Chicago, St. 
Paul and Omaha. The third crop of al- 
falfa was being cut in the country sur- 
rounding the city of Billings, and the 
immense stacks of hay loomed up in the 
distance, to be used for the winter feed- 
ing of the stock. 

I followed the Yellowstone river to 
Livingston, arriving near the close of 
the summer travel to the Yellowstone 
National Park. 



221 



THE YELLOWSTONE 
NATIONAL PARK 



CHAPTER XXVII. 
The Yellowstone National Park. 

The park is situated in the North- 
west corner of the State of Wyoming, 
overlapping a few miles into Montana 
on the north, and Montana and Idaho 
on the west, in the heart of the Rocky 
Mountains, and is about sixty-five miles 
east and west and seventy-five miles 
north and south. 

None of the valleys are less than 
6,000 feet, while many of the moun- 
tain peaks rise to 10,000 and even 14,- 
000 feet above the sea-level. Three 
of the largest rivers in the United 
States, the Missouri, Yellowstone and 
Columbia, have their sources in the 
Yellowstone Park. Yellowstone Lake, 
fifteen by twenty miles in size, is the 
largest body of water, at an altitude of 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

8,000 feet, in America. The other 
lakes are Shoshone, Lewis and Heart 
Lakes. The falls of the Yellowstone 
are most magnificent. The Grand Can- 
yon, ten miles long, with an average 
depth of over a thousand feet, is one of 
the most brilliantly colored landscapes 
in existence. The geysers outclass any- 
thing in the world. Clififs of volcanic 
origin, mountains of petrifactions 
beautiful waterfalls, hills of brimstone, 
snow-capped peaks, charming valleys 
with thousands of natural curiosities, 
make this the wonderland of the world. 
The Mammoth Hot Springs is 
where the Mammoth Hotel and Fort 
Yellowstone are situated. Substantial 
roads and bridges have been construc- 
ed from Gardner, on the very edge of 
the park and the terminus of the Yel- 
lowstone Park branch of the Northern 
Pacific Railroad, to all the chief at- 

226 



The Yellowstone National Park 

tractions in this government national 
park, for the protection and enjoyment 
of the numerous people from all parts 
of the civilized globe who come to visit 
this beautiful spot of nature. 

At Gardner the Northern Pacific 
Company has erected an attractive and 
unique depot, made of logs from the 
Bitter Root valley. The same company 
has erected the most magnificent depot 
in the v^est, at Livingston, the headquar- 
ters for all the National Park travel. 
The division headquarters and shops 
for the company are located here. 

Livingston is situated on the Yel- 
lowstone river, and is the center of an 
extensive stock and farming country. 
There are numerous producing coal and 
quartz mines adjacent to the city, which 
is the distributing and supply point. 
Valuable quartz mines are at Jardine, 
Bear Gulch and Cooke City, and the 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

coal mines are at Cokedale, Aldridge 
and Horr, and beyond the Bozeman 
tunnel are the coal mines of Chestnut 
and Storr. 

At Lombard, the Montana Railroad 
extends to Lewistown, the principal 
town in the Judith country. This town 
has made great strides of late years, 
and on the event of the railroad this 
fall will make greater improvements, as 
it is the supply headquarters for the 
ranching country and the mines of Gilt 
Edge and Kendall, besides the enor- 
mous sheep and cattle industries of the 
Judith and Musselshell countries. 

The railroad branches at Summit 
for Leadboro, the Castle lead mines. 

At Dorsey the coaches meet the 
trains for White Sulphur Springs. 

Townsend, on the main line of the 
Northern Pacific, is in the center of the 



228 



The Yellowstone National Park 

rich farms of the Missouri valley, with 
numerous mines close by. 

I again cross the Missouri river, 
passing the mining town of Winston, 
reaching the capital of our state, Hel- 
ena, on the 25th day of October, 1903, 
having traveled with my companion 
during the last eight months, a dis- 
tance of over twenty-four thousand 
miles. 



229 



MONTANA'S CAPITAL 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Montana's Capital. 

Since my last visit to Helena, the 
government has erected a commodious 
and substantial Federal building. 

The Northern Pacific and Great Nor- 
thern Railway Companies have just 
completed a fine union depot, which 
adds much to the appearance of the city. 

On December ist, an extraordinary 
session of the legislature was called, 
bringing to the capital many acquaint- 
ances from other sections of the state, 
and made a continual stir and bustle for 
two weeks. Then came the holiday 
season, causing the city generally to 
show great evidence of prosperity. 

Montana has every reason to be 
proud of its state capitol, which is lo- 
cated in the eastern part of the city on 

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Leaves of Knowledge 

a plat of ten acres, donated to the state. 
The building is two hundred and fifty- 
feet in length by one hundred and thirty 
in width. From the center of the build- 
ing rises the dome, which is covered 
with copper and crowned by the statue 
of liberty. Arrangements have been 
made for planting the entire ground 
with trees, which will, with growth, 
give a pleasant appearance. 

I very much admired the gov- 
ernor's reception room, twenty by 
forty feet in size. The room is 
beautifully decorated in green and 
red. The chandelier is as elaborate 
when lighted as any I have ever seen. 
The harmony of the color effect and the 
blending is perfectly grand. There are 
larger and more costly state buildings 
in other parts of the union, but for 
beanty and design, there are none that 
excel the capitol of Montana, The su- 

234 



Montana's Capital 

preme court room, state officials' apart- 
ments, senate chamber, and the house, 
all blend in the striking colors of green 
and red. At the head of the grand 
stairway and above an art glass win- 
dow, is a painting presented by the 
Northern Pacific Railway Company, 
representing the driving of its golden 
spike, at Gold Creek, Montana, on the 
completion of the road on September 
1 8th, 1883. General U. S. Grant is 
plainly shown holding the hammer, 
which drove the spike, finishing the 
railway connections from the Atlantic 
to the Pacific, by this transcontinental 
line. 

In the house of representatives, di- 
rectly over the speaker's desk, is a 
painting, commemorating the "Louisi- 
ana Purchase." In this picture are 
grouped the men who participated in 
this transaction, though some of them 

235 



Leaves of Knowledge 

never met. Seated and standing around 
the table are Napoleon and Marbois, 
on behalf of the French government, 
while our country is represented by Jef- 
ferson, Livingston and Monroe. On 
the table is a globe, and the map of the 
territory involved. 

The celebration in its honor will be- 
gin May I St of this present year, at St. 
Louis, Missouri. 

In the senate chamber is a painting 
over the president's desk of "Lewis' 
First Glimpse of the Rockies." It 
shows Lewis on a rocky point with his 
telescope, catching a view of the dis- 
tant Rocky mountains, with his com- 
rades in the background. 

In honor of this expedition will be 
the "Lewis and Clarke Exposition," 
next year at Portland, Oregon. 

My sojourn in Helena coming to a 
close, I will now leave you for the pres- 

236 



Montana's Capital 

ent, and go home to Butte; knowing 
that I have given truthful information 
to my many, many readers. 



FINIS. 



237 



APR 1 6 1904 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



011 290 334 3 



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